Metal saws - pro's - con's - compromises
 

My dilemma began with "unsatisfactory" accuracy and setup time for 45* miter cuts with my little Jet horizontal 1/2" x 64.5" blade bandsaw.

Cuts for auto related projects are tolerable but for my frame and other projects the time spent hand fitting joints is a PITA.

The current saw and space restrictions:

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-R...RTX3rQT-XL.jpg

Couple mitering projects:

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-6...6vjCkPx-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-5...5fnXxVr-XL.jpg

I started thinking a 110V Cold Saw in the 11" range that cuts 45* both Left and Right would be ideal for speed and accuracy. Not inexpensive upfront and a proper selection of blades adds to the cost.

This is the cold saw: http://metal.baileighindustrial.com/...ldsaw-cs-275eu

Are the cold saws that accurate?

Do they produce really clean burr free cuts?

Are they low or high maintenance?

Do they work well on smaller tubing and shapes?

I'm close to pulling the trigger and I'm now assessing my wants vs overall needs. Is there a more universal saw better suited to my hobbyist needs?

Would a mitering bandsaw with a 3/4" blade that also goes vertical (a feature I use a lot) be a better purchase in the long run?

This is the bandsaw: http://metal.baileighindustrial.com/...d-saw-bs-712ms

Will the 3/4" vs. 1/2" blade improve the cutting accuracy?

The upgraded bandsaw would only take a little more existing space vs. adding the cold saw to the mix which requires another 3' x 3'.

Do I want the cold saw.........hell yes! Because I think they're a cool tool and I've always appreciated the quality good tools deliver.

I ask those with experience.........will I be disappointed?

Are the cold saws as frequent a "go-to" tool in the shop as a good bandsaw?

:headscratch:

Cold saws are great, and I wish I had one, but I have another option. It is a Makita metal cutting chop saw that uses Metal carbide blades (not the fiber type. It works well. The cuts are accurate as you set them up to be and no sparks.

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LC1230-.../dp/B00004YOLV

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-A-90875..._bxgy_hi_img_z

Thanks for the input. :thumbsup: I just have a tinkering garage/shop with limited space and that might fit my limited volume/applications well. My concern with the cold saws is snagging smaller thin wall square and round tubing.

After debating my real world usage vs. wants today I decided to upgrade my little Jet dry cut band saw to the Baileigh BS-712MS. Hopefully I'll see some improvement in accuracy, being a swivel head it will be much faster to setup for angles, and it also lock vertical which is a feature I use a fair amount. Hopefully the .75" vs. .50" blade improves the accuracy a little.

http://metal.baileighindustrial.com/...aw-bs712ms.jpg

I know upgrading the band saw will be an improvement and I use it a fair amount. Time will tell. :sieg:

PERFECT!!!


Now I feel like Charley! I got you started on the saw buying band wagon.... HAHAHAHAHAHA




You will be happy with that saw!

Thanks - You are like Charlie and ............you suck. :thumbsup:

This should be a good fit and it leaves the door open for a circular in the future.

I hope it meets the needs as the freight was $80 less than I stole that Jet saw for. :lol:

Big thank you to Shane at Baileigh and the Lat-g discount. I very much appreciated his service. :thumbsup:

Were you having problems with the accuracy or repeatability of the angle itself or was it not making a square cut like the blade was tilting or walking?

I would think that you could remedy the first by using a combination square instead of relying on the markings on the saw or even drill your own holes and set up pins at the angles you use most often. I've never found the markings to be very precise. If the problem is tilting of the cut or walking of the blade a wider blade will help but it all boils down to sharpness, pressure (feed) and pitch. Feed it too fast and pretty much any blade will "walk" and make a cut that isn't square. A dull blade has the same effect. Too coarse of a pitch on a thin walled material will give you similar problems and try to grab.

You should get yourself a few different blades to use for different materials and workpiece shapes. A very fine pitch should be used with the thin walled stuff to keep from having it grab or make a generally bad cut. If you can, always try to have a minumum of 2 or 3 teeth in cut at all times. The fine pitch blades will also work better on harder materials and will leave less of a burr on all materials at the expense of cutting speed.

I have a Mikita saw like this but it has the fiber blades and they throw enough sparks to start a fire in the next state... I'll have to get one of those dry metal blades if I ever use it again. And I haven't used it except to rough cut heavy angle iron that I didn't care about accuracy. About two years ago I picked up a Wilton 3130 brand new in the box on Craigslist for $350. I thought I would use it every now and then for intercooler and exhaust projects but it's never gathered dust... I use it pretty much every day for cutting something. Highly recommended purchase! It is probably a step above your Jet Seig but not as nice as the Baleigh you are looking at!!

http://www.brweldingsupplies.com/wil...utting-1-2-hp/

That is very, very, very nice Seig!

Thanks SS! I hope so!

I use the little Jet so much it made sense to upgrade the go-to tool verses adding a specialty saw at my level. If the miters aren't as tight as need the next move may be a 12" to 20" disc grinder as my little 1x42 belt / 8" disc Delta lacks surface area, table size, and has some disc flex.......but it's also a tool that gets used frequently.

This 20" would be a big upgrade.

http://www.mscdirect.co.uk/ProductIm.../BLH-14015.jpg

Seig, did your BS-712MS saw arrive? Looking forward to seeing your impressions on it. I am looking at this one as well. Not a whole lot of reviews to find on this machine.

Ron - I'm hoping it arrives next week. I'll review once I have it tuned properly and get familiar with it. The stock blade is a 6/10 (I think) and also purchased an 8/12 which I'm guessing for most of my work will be the go to blade.

Not sure if I'll need to get a blade tension gauge or not.....at $265+ I'm hoping not! :lol: