Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick Mc
Manual brakes work great, BUT like every thing else they need to be set up correctly.
What car are we talking about?
If you get the pedal ratio correct the brakes will work great.
For example there is a huge difference in pedal ratios of Camaros and Chevelles and power and non-power.
Manual can be made to work, but you need to do the math.
A power set up is very forgiving. If the ratio is incorrect or the master cylinder is under or over sized the power sort of covers it up.
Your system sounds like there are other issues first to deal with.
Find a dirt road and see if you can lock up the rear brakes.
My guess is there is something else in the system that needs fixing.
A good brake bleeding is the first place to start. If you're a little unsure about bleeding take it to a brake shop, most of them have a very cool 'power bleeder'. Paul from Hydratech has a great article on his website about bleeding brakes (Hydra-boost systems are very sensitive to bleeding issues).
Take a look at the brake pedal itself. Are there several holes for the rod that goes to the master cylinder? Which hole is being used?
Take a look at all of the brake lines, are they stock or aftermarket, are they rubber or stainless steel, are they smashed or twisted. The brake line that runs under the engine next to the crossmember is notorious for getting beat up, and gets hot too.
If you have flexable lines at each wheel, how long are they and are they braided stainless steel. Are they -3 or -4?
You say "your not getting enough power from the booster" which booster and master cylinder are you running now?
If the car is older, does it have the combination valve, or is it the later model with a proportioning valve? If you purchased the booster and master cylinder together I assume it had a proportioning valve already plumbed?
Mick
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I still think you have a basic brake system problem.
If it is a Chevelle, there are two different holes on the brake pedal arm.
One for power brakes and one for manual brakes.
Which hole is the rod in?
If I remember correctly Chevelle has a much better pedal leverage ratio than a Camaro, so all things being equal the Chevelle should be, leverage wise, eaiser (less pedal effort) to stop. If you're a big burly man then you should be able to test the shoulder straps at any time...
WHAT MASTER CYLINDER AND BOOSTER IS ON THE CAR NOW!?
Mick