The 12mil part, is straight out of the "Auto Body Repair Technology" text book. Is it the right answer, No. But it gives the layman the idea of what the paint film thickness is compared to factory specs.
My company is in the buisness of doing custom paint jobs and we are never really to concerned with the thickness of the paint, not to say that I do not keep it in the back of my mind while laying out a paint job.(too much paint can change the gaps and fitment that you have worked so hard on) When you are doing a Metal Flake job you have no choice but to load the paint on to achieve the desired finish, when you consider all the levels of paint products on a custom, it far exceeds the recomened paint film thickness set out for you in the text book.
This thread started off as is it possible to remove all of the orange peel, the answer is YES, but it will take some time and serious skill. Wet sanding a 100 dollar paint job is one thing, but sanding out a paint job with thousands of dollars in paint material alone takes skill, and the straightest sanding block you can find or make.
Sanding the car is only one step, once that polisher is in your hands thats a new game all together. Watch those EDGES!!!
For all those that are in the trade or just doing it yourselves, the blocking process before paint is the key, the more times that you have your eyes and hands on the panel the straighter it will be.
Here in the shop we switched over to Sherwin Willams paint, from PPG a few years ago. I have used most of the major paint manufactures over the years and not trying to sell you, but the Sherwin line has come along way. Most important product that everyone should look into is their High Build primer
"P30".Unbelieveable product. Lays down smooth and dries to a glossy finish. Having a high build that dries to a glossy finish allows you to see your work just as if it was clearcoated.
Well my fingers are tired, too much sanding today, so thats all you get for now.
Cheers
Aaron
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