Orange Peel

[FlameBroiled]

The 12mil part, is straight out of the "Auto Body Repair Technology" text book. Is it the right answer, No. But it gives the layman the idea of what the paint film thickness is compared to factory specs.

My company is in the buisness of doing custom paint jobs and we are never really to concerned with the thickness of the paint, not to say that I do not keep it in the back of my mind while laying out a paint job.(too much paint can change the gaps and fitment that you have worked so hard on) When you are doing a Metal Flake job you have no choice but to load the paint on to achieve the desired finish, when you consider all the levels of paint products on a custom, it far exceeds the recomened paint film thickness set out for you in the text book.

This thread started off as is it possible to remove all of the orange peel, the answer is YES, but it will take some time and serious skill. Wet sanding a 100 dollar paint job is one thing, but sanding out a paint job with thousands of dollars in paint material alone takes skill, and the straightest sanding block you can find or make.

Sanding the car is only one step, once that polisher is in your hands thats a new game all together. Watch those EDGES!!!

For all those that are in the trade or just doing it yourselves, the blocking process before paint is the key, the more times that you have your eyes and hands on the panel the straighter it will be.

Here in the shop we switched over to Sherwin Willams paint, from PPG a few years ago. I have used most of the major paint manufactures over the years and not trying to sell you, but the Sherwin line has come along way. Most important product that everyone should look into is their High Build primer
"P30".Unbelieveable product. Lays down smooth and dries to a glossy finish. Having a high build that dries to a glossy finish allows you to see your work just as if it was clearcoated.

Well my fingers are tired, too much sanding today, so thats all you get for now.


Cheers

Aaron

[Ron Fox]

Considering orange peel, is it best to leave a small amount that is not so noticeable or to go ahead and spend the time and money to get the orange peel free paint job?

Will other blemishes show up in the paint if there is no orange peel?

[GM Muscle]

Originally Posted by Ron Fox

Considering orange peel, is it best to leave a small amount that is not so noticeable or to go ahead and spend the time and money to get the orange peel free paint job?

Will other blemishes show up in the paint if there is no orange peel?

you need to differentiate between texture and orange peel. texture is what you would see in a new factory car. orange peel will look like... well, the peel of an orange. its a lot worse situation that just texture from spraying.

honestly if the painter is decent there shouldnt be any "orange peel" you may notice a tad bit of texture but look at any factory car, they have texture but are shiney when going down the road and no one complains.. if you have the time to wetsand and polish the entire car then by all means go for the show finish. if you plan on parking at walmart and local diners i wouldnt waste my time. i would make sure the car is super straight before paint, make sure the painter took his time, and denib any trash nibs then drive it. the first time some one door dings your 100hrs worth the sanding and buffing your going to have a heart attack so just make sure its straight and shiney.. show car finishes arent for cars that will be driven everywhere...

what color you go with will also make a difference. red, yellow, white(brighter colors) are going to really hide alot of flaws and imperfections in the clear. darker colors are really going to show them. you just have to decide what level of perfection youre going to be satisified with and go from there. determine whether this is going to be your show car or your baby.. or just a driver for you to enjoy..

[Ron Fox]

Originally Posted by GM Muscle

you need to differentiate between texture and orange peel. texture is what you would see in a new factory car. orange peel will look like... well, the peel of an orange. its a lot worse situation that just texture from spraying.

honestly if the painter is decent there shouldnt be any "orange peel" you may notice a tad bit of texture but look at any factory car, they have texture but are shiney when going down the road and no one complains.. if you have the time to wetsand and polish the entire car then by all means go for the show finish. if you plan on parking at walmart and local diners i wouldnt waste my time. i would make sure the car is super straight before paint, make sure the painter took his time, and denib any trash nibs then drive it. the first time some one door dings your 100hrs worth the sanding and buffing your going to have a heart attack so just make sure its straight and shiney.. show car finishes arent for cars that will be driven everywhere...

what color you go with will also make a difference. red, yellow, white(brighter colors) are going to really hide alot of flaws and imperfections in the clear. darker colors are really going to show them. you just have to decide what level of perfection youre going to be satisified with and go from there. determine whether this is going to be your show car or your baby.. or just a driver for you to enjoy..

Thanks for the information. You guys don't relize how much I have learned from this one thread.

My car is originally Antique Gold. I want to go back with some sort of Gold color. Should a lighter color primer be used with Gold?

I only plan on driving on sunny days and hopefully not get caught in the rain. Leaving my car in the parking lot a Walmart is not an option. I will never leave my car unattended and I will always have one eye on her (do I sound crazy or what?)

Thanks.

[elitecustombody]

I'd use gray or buff color primer if going with gold

[GM Muscle]

we always use grey then use what ever value shade sealer the paint calls for. value shade two is almost white and value shad 7 is almost black. you can mix them to acheive what you need..

[Ron Fox]

At the moment the car is in black epoxy. Will this have any type of effect on the Gold color?

Stupid question here: will the black epoxy stay on the car and be under the primer when the blocking begins?

I want to have a light Gold color and not a darker bronze color. Anyone have a good Gold color paint codes?

Thanks.

[GM Muscle]

Originally Posted by FlameBroiled

The 12mil part, is straight out of the "Auto Body Repair Technology" text book. Is it the right answer, No. But it gives the layman the idea of what the paint film thickness is compared to factory specs.

My company is in the buisness of doing custom paint jobs and we are never really to concerned with the thickness of the paint, not to say that I do not keep it in the back of my mind while laying out a paint job.(too much paint can change the gaps and fitment that you have worked so hard on) When you are doing a Metal Flake job you have no choice but to load the paint on to achieve the desired finish, when you consider all the levels of paint products on a custom, it far exceeds the recomened paint film thickness set out for you in the text book.

This thread started off as is it possible to remove all of the orange peel, the answer is YES, but it will take some time and serious skill. Wet sanding a 100 dollar paint job is one thing, but sanding out a paint job with thousands of dollars in paint material alone takes skill, and the straightest sanding block you can find or make.

Sanding the car is only one step, once that polisher is in your hands thats a new game all together. Watch those EDGES!!!

For all those that are in the trade or just doing it yourselves, the blocking process before paint is the key, the more times that you have your eyes and hands on the panel the straighter it will be.

Here in the shop we switched over to Sherwin Willams paint, from PPG a few years ago. I have used most of the major paint manufactures over the years and not trying to sell you, but the Sherwin line has come along way. Most important product that everyone should look into is their High Build primer
"P30".Unbelieveable product. Lays down smooth and dries to a glossy finish. Having a high build that dries to a glossy finish allows you to see your work just as if it was clearcoated.

Well my fingers are tired, too much sanding today, so thats all you get for now.


Cheers

Aaron

well put

[elitecustombody]

Originally Posted by FlameBroiled

The 12mil part, is straight out of the "Auto Body Repair Technology" text book. Is it the right answer, No. But it gives the layman the idea of what the paint film thickness is compared to factory specs.

My company is in the buisness of doing custom paint jobs and we are never really to concerned with the thickness of the paint, not to say that I do not keep it in the back of my mind while laying out a paint job.(too much paint can change the gaps and fitment that you have worked so hard on) When you are doing a Metal Flake job you have no choice but to load the paint on to achieve the desired finish, when you consider all the levels of paint products on a custom, it far exceeds the recomened paint film thickness set out for you in the text book.

This thread started off as is it possible to remove all of the orange peel, the answer is YES, but it will take some time and serious skill. Wet sanding a 100 dollar paint job is one thing, but sanding out a paint job with thousands of dollars in paint material alone takes skill, and the straightest sanding block you can find or make.

Sanding the car is only one step, once that polisher is in your hands thats a new game all together. Watch those EDGES!!!

For all those that are in the trade or just doing it yourselves, the blocking process before paint is the key, the more times that you have your eyes and hands on the panel the straighter it will be.

Here in the shop we switched over to Sherwin Willams paint, from PPG a few years ago. I have used most of the major paint manufactures over the years and not trying to sell you, but the Sherwin line has come along way. Most important product that everyone should look into is their High Build primer
"P30".Unbelieveable product. Lays down smooth and dries to a glossy finish. Having a high build that dries to a glossy finish allows you to see your work just as if it was clearcoated.

Well my fingers are tired, too much sanding today, so thats all you get for now.


Cheers

Aaron

You're right, that P30 is amazing, also if you haven't noticed,it's very flexible,feathers like nothing else and it's so easy to sand,but I guess that's what you'd expect form $400+ per gallon primer

[GM Muscle]

i think i need to try this stuff.. sounds too good to be true. how is the hold out (i.e. shrinking, etc)