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Old 09-26-2015, 04:32 PM
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Arrow You had it by the ass...

I understand looks, symmetry, artful and tasteful placements, BUT form follows function, right?

You had it by the ass in this initial mockup:





It is my opinion that you then did the Ooopsey with the placement of your waste gates:





I do indeed understand the money you have into the "silly little exhaust pipe"

Take a look at our 2nd gen Camaro listing. You will see that the HotRod Magazine Nelson Racing Project F Bomb's waste gate is sitting "right there" also. They beat the snot out of that car mercilessly and never ran into a problem with MC overheat:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/GM_2ndgenF_Body.html



Working with hundreds of TT builds over the years, I say you are better off editing the exhaust layout. The waste gate plumbing will not glow red hot unless you get into a standing mile / Bonneville salt flats type of run, so simple heat shielding with the current arrangement will also take care of business. Note that the highest heat put into a brake system / fluid is at the wheels themselves...

Now, going into further discussion, I truly do understand the shear simplicity and good looks of a properly set up manual brake system. As you know, the success of this will require large caliper piston surface area, along with pads that have considerable bite to them. Whether you ultimately choose to go manual or stay with power, look at the CNC balance bar arrangements - they can plug into you firewall just as easily as a typical tandem MC (Wilwood or whatever), but give you the balance bar and individually swappable MC's:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=36692

This package may look long (camera angle), though the MC comes in at the same installed length as the Wilwood 260-8556.





Also, I'm not a big fan of chrome, though this MC comes in at 7 3/4" - a 1/2" shorter than the Wilwood while providing the 1 1/8" bore size:





http://www.hydratechbraking.com/mast...E121C330281461

Going back to numbers, the hydroboost systems are a variable output device. Since they are not a linear output device, it becomes very difficult to put numbers into graphs and charts. PS pump specs have a large input as to the power levels the hydroboost can produce, and can impact brake unit dynamics considerably (as the PS pump is ultimately the power supply to the brake unit). Here is a knob adjustable way to uptune / detune PS system characteristics:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=29580

Adding complexity, but the ability to pull over and change your braking and steering response is cool - turn it up and down as your situations change in a multipurpose vehicle (or tune it exactly where you like it and be done).

The brake units themselves have also undergone many proprietary changes over the years, and the latest Hydratech offerings are considerably different in that they provide a wider margin of coverage for pedal effort and feel (load sensing to provide a crisp / clean response across a wider spectrum of variables in the braking system). The power curve is improved, providing less initial assist, though ramping up sharply at higher pedal assist "request". Here is one of the latest Lat-G builds where it is stated:

Paul, could NOT be happier with your braking system, perfect easy install, and the braking is phenomenal .. the setup feels as close to a production performance car as you could possibly get, and Jim was awesome to deal with


https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...t=50526&page=4

Hard pads wear MUCH longer, don't chew the rotors, allow for higher temperature use, and don't dust badly. Keeping your hydroboost will allow you run the hard pads.

If you need to plug some numbers in, the hydroboost systems will variably generate 1400 - 1800 PSI of brake line pressure at the 100# pedal input, with the variables being pedal ratio, PS pump max pressure relief, MC piston bore sizes.

Then there is also Jody's previous TT build sporting the 17 degree upward system with the Viper MC:





This is our 17 degree upward model that connects to the power brake hole in your brake pedal:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/GM_A...920161312A1BD0

Let me know how I may be of further assistance.
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