67 Camaro - Dad and Son build

[boostin05blacks]

Originally Posted by 72Z/28

Nice Are you going to have a junction block to hook the battery positive terminal, starter and the alternator hot wire? if so could you please post a photo of it where it is going to be mounted?

The reason why I am asking is that I have the battery mounted in the trunk like yours and there is a junction block mounted on the passenger side fender well.

Yep. The main junction block that has constant power is located and mounted in the drivers fender area to the right of the pass-thru connector for the fuse panel. My main feed wire is 8 gauge and has a fuseable link connected to the selonid located in my trunk very close to the battery. The power wires that are ran to that main junction block go like this from back --->front in this order.

Main power wire - 8 gauge
Alternator wire - 8 gauge
Main fusebox power/interior pwr - 8/10 gauge cant remember what AAW ran
Main Ecu power - 2 leads

That pretty much covers the whole car. All my other powers will come off this block in some way. Hope that helps. Here are some pictures to show you.




Heres the path that I routed the main 1/0 gauge starter wire, wire to the ignition, and the main 8 gauge for the distribution block in the drivers fender.


Starter wire runs through the pass toeboard as seen here.



Hope that helps give a better picture. If you have any other questions I can help with give me a pm and Ill shot you my cell number.

[72Z/28]

Thanks man for the info and the illustrations you provided. I will definitely send you a pm with some photos showing how stupidly the wiring was done on my camaro. Hopefully I am going to learn from you how to rewire some stuff.

[boostin05blacks]

No problem. That's what we are all here for..without help I wouldn't be where I'm at now.

I ordered the last piece that I can think of to wrap the motor up. Radiator and all the pieces for the intake. All that should be here early next week. Then just have to finish some small wiring, mount the ecu, wrap up the gauges, either extend the coil wire plugs or get extensions, mount the coils, put the gaskets on the headers and tighten them down, fill the motor/radiator with coolant, run/route the PVC system. Cycle the key and check for leaks in the fuel system and coolant system and then let the heaven sing the sweet tunes of fire breathing power. Whoa I'm getting all excited...

So this weekend the old man came buy and we worked on tiddying up some lose wires, routing and securing the plug wires, fixing the oil leak at the adapter for the oil pressure gauge, running the power wire for the fuel system, and extending the wires for the map and cleaning that up. Next weekend I believe Timmy is going to come over so we can mount the pedal, ecu, and vaporworx stuff and mount the gauge cluster. Onto some quick pictures..






More to come soon..

[72Z/28]

Thanks manand best of luckwith your project. I noticed that you hooked up a pink wire, which I assume is the S wire on the alternator pigtail, to the alternator post on the back side. What about the L wire, did you connect any resistor between the L wire and the alternator exciter?





The reason why I am asking is that I have got the same alternator, and there was only the L wire on the alternator pigtail connected to the alternator exciter wire, and the S wire was not connected. The alternator was not charging the battery when the S wire was not connected. So, I connected the S wire to post on the backside of the alternator similar to yours and started to get 14.4V at the alternator, but there is no any resistor between the L wire and alternator exciter wire. I actually don't know whether the alternator exciter wire is hooked to the dash cluster or to the PCM, and there is no charge light.. I tried to trace the exciter wire but know luck. The wiring harness and the EFI harness are from Painless.

I also realized that a Ford starter solenoid was installed on the fender well,



Honestly I don't know what the rest of the wires are for.

[boostin05blacks]

Hey man. Without being at the car I honestly would only be guessing. My harness is from PSI and he wanted constant power for the pink wire. The main 8 gauge wire runs to the power block which is mounted on the drivers side firewall behind the fender as shown in the pictures above. If you want to talk on the phone hit me with a pm and Ill call you tonight or give you my number to call me. Ill help as best as I can. If it was me Id buy a kit from Mad Electrical ----> http://www.madelectrical.com/
I would call up Mark who is the owner, hes been doing this for over 30 years. The guy is a book on electrical for cars. Super nice guy..hell get you on the right path either way.




After thinking about it for a few days I didnt like how the wires where running over the control arms. So last night I pulled each side off and switched them to see if I could find a nice spot to mount the coils. The problem side is the drivers side as there is the steering box, brake stuff, clutch stuff, and headers. I found a good spot that should work on the underside of the firewall. Ill weld a mounting bracket to the firewall. Once mounted the closest point from header to coil should be no less than 2". Its closer than I like but if I burn up a coil Ill move them inside under the dash. Its part of hotrodding I guess. Im going to make up a heat shield also so that should help. Here are some pictures.. I have to get some better ones of the coils once mounted to show clearance.

[72Z/28]

Thanks dude for your cooperation;I will try to contact Mark and probably get the kit from him.

Once again good luck with your project..

[boostin05blacks]

So Timmy came over last night to hopefully finish up the welding on the car. Poor Timmy every time he comes close to the car I’m adding stuff for him to tackle. For such a young guy I can’t say enough. Truly an artist and amazes me with the pride he takes in the smallest thing. So the main goals where to mount the pedal, and mount the coils packs. Which both are now done. The coil packs are close to the headers but far enough away I don’t see it being a problem. Just to be safe I’m going to have Timmy make a metal shield to combat some of the heat. I am also going to take apart the coil harness and clean it up as it just looks old/messy. I’ll get some better pictures of the coils and mounting location once they are all done and complete. It was late, the shop was a mess and the lighting was horrible. The pedal box was also welded to the inside once we figured out where it would work best. After some grinding and fitting it’s done. I threw some black paint on it quickly to make sure it doesn't start rusting, got to close while painting and its a bit runny. Not that anyone will see it but I like to show everyone what/how its done..not just the finished project. So go easy on me painters. Timmy also finished mounting the dash lights for the turn signal, check engine light, and high beam lights. It came out great.

I also received the intake piping from summit so I pieced that together and I’m still up in the air if I’m going to paint the pipes some sort of black. Also figured out where we are going to mount the ecu/fuse panel which will be on top of the gauge pod. This way I can get to it but it’s not easily seen. The OBD port will also be mounted to the driver side of the gauge pod, again out of direct sight but easy to access. Last but not least the radiator will be here before the weekend...so that’s the next big to do. Once I get it Ill wire up the fans off the ecu and plumb the steam vent, fill it with coolant and check for leaks. Where getting close. I’m going to schedule the break in/tune sometime next week as long as everything goes smoothly. Onto the pictures..

[boostin05blacks]

Got over to the car this weekend. Trying to wrap up the some of the small stuff and get ready for the car to be fired. First off was to rewrap the old wiring for the coil packs. That was done on the driver side as Timmy took the passenger side to make a heat shield. The one coil is a little over an inch away hopefully it will be fine. Well see..I also cleaned the header mounting surface off put the gasket in and put the apr bolts in with some anti-seize , torqued them to spec. Once I get the other coil pack back I'll finish the passenger side.

The radiator showed up on friday so I put that in also and my hoses fit but the lower is just too short. Im going to the auto store soon and see what I can come up with. other than that it should be simple. The wiring harness is really nice and simple. What a great piece compared to others that are close to double in price.

Me and my brother in law made wood blocks to get the car in the air to install and work on easier. So after we made them I put the car on them. The dimensions are 21" x 23" - 8 per block so a total of 32 each. I also got some shots of the of the pedal as people where asking how the travel is limited and exactly where it is located.

[waynieZ]

Your making some great progress. Thats a sweet looking radiator it will definitely be plenty of cooling. Nice work.

[boostin05blacks]

Thanks man..

Ok so may photobucet is down..hate that sometimes anyway.. Been really pushing on the car could have done it with out the help from family, friends, John over at psi and Carl at vaporworx..both great companies to work with. For the first start the car would run 2-3 seconds and stall. We then scanned for codes and where getting cam and crank. After talking to John we realized the cam signal was wrong and fixed it, again thank you John. The car then fired but was running rough...realizing there is two large vacuums at the back of the manifold that need to be plugged. Once those where closed with my buddies finger here's what we have...

http://s1163.photobucket.com/albums/...t=2475b1dd.mp4

Now the crank code is still coming up which im told I need to get a tech II and do a relearn. Going to address that get some plugs for the intake and I also ordered a fuel pressure gauge to dial in the fuel pressure to make sure she's getting enough fuel.. Hopefully they should get her running well.


Other than all that I need to get the car ready for the engine break-in and tune..which means it has to be drivable. The brake lines are roughly ran but need to be finalized and all the end need to be cut and reflarred to fit the wilwood distribution valve, then bleed. Need to fill both rear and transmission with fluid, put the drive shaft in, bleed the clutch, put the steering box in and steering column back in, and button up all loose end/bolts.

Much more to come..