Brake distribution block - Lateral-g Forums

J-440 · #1 02-06-2010, 04:20 PM

Evening all. I am about to start fabbing my brake lines and the kit that I received has no brake distr. block. I do have a boatload of T and L fittings as well as an adjustable proportioning valve. Since I have the prop. valve, would I even need to use a brake distrib. block? Thanks again.

wedged · #2 02-06-2010, 05:37 PM

how many ports on the prop valve ? is it adjustable ?
is there a brake warning switch for the dash warning light ?
what type of kit ? drum/drum (not likely) disc/drum disc/disc ?

J-440 · #3 02-06-2010, 05:59 PM

2 threaded holes for the prop valve and it is adjustable. It will be a manual disc/disc setup.

Northern Goat · #4 02-06-2010, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-440

Evening all. I am about to start fabbing my brake lines and the kit that I received has no brake distr. block. I do have a boatload of T and L fittings as well as an adjustable proportioning valve. Since I have the prop. valve, would I even need to use a brake distrib. block? Thanks again.

I have a Wilwood 4 wheel disk setup with the Wilwood master cylinder. I ran a line from the front outlet of the master (closest to the firewall) into a T fitting and split left and right front brakes, I then plugged the rear outlet from the master into my adjustable prop valve, then through a #2 residual valve and ran it to the back. I'll let you know how that works out for me.

J-440 · #5 02-06-2010, 08:01 PM

Goat...I have noticed that the threaded holes from the master cylinder are 2 different sizes. The closest one to the firewall is smaller than the other one. I'm assuming the smaller hole should lead to the rear brakes and the bigger hole leads to the front?

**GregWeld** · #6 02-06-2010, 08:16 PM

You'll need to split the lines in the front with a "T" -- and you should have a "T" block at the rear axle...

The prop valve should be INLINE to the rears... it is directional and should be marked with "in" and "out".

As long as your master is ABOVE the brake calipers - there's no need for residual valves.

The WILWOOD Master secondary reservoir is nearest the firewall to the Rear brakes and the primary (front) reservoir to the fronts... so is pretty easy to remember that hookup.

The adjustable prop valve should be adjusted so the the rear brakes DO NOT lock up before the fronts... I test mine at 25/30 mph in the WET...

Northern Goat · #7 02-06-2010, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-440

Goat...I have noticed that the threaded holes from the master cylinder are 2 different sizes. The closest one to the firewall is smaller than the other one. I'm assuming the smaller hole should lead to the rear brakes and the bigger hole leads to the front?

My bad I wrote that backwards. Other than the residual valve (cheap insurance) my setup is just as Greg described.

wedged · #8 02-07-2010, 06:52 AM

J-440, since you said your M/C has 2 different size port threads that means you have the Mopar type M/C with the plastic reservoir and not the all metal version. The primary or front brake line needs to go to the rear port and the rear brake line goes to the front. The reason for this is that there is built in volume proportioning- the front brakes get more volume of fluid.

The newer type all metal Wilwood M/C is different- port sizes are matching and the front port is for the front brakes.

I'd recommend to add a factory type metering valve/distribution block for 3 reasons. Hold off , a warning light and the safety of closing down 1/2 of the system in the event of a hydraulic failure. There is several different options for doing this, including some new trick aftermarket pieces.

J-440 · #9 02-07-2010, 09:00 AM

Yes, I do have the older style plastic M/C. Although, I just got 2 different answers from Wedged and Gregweld about which way to route the lines. The hole closest to the firewall in the M/C is smaller than the one in the front. So the smaller hole is for the rear brakes and the bigger hole is routed to the fronts?
Wedged, as for the term "hold off" what does that mean? Last but not least, is a residual valve built into the distribution block and why would I need one?
You guys are a HUGE help and I appreciate it.

wedged · #10 02-07-2010, 03:32 PM

J-440, what I told you about the brake line routing for the two different M/C's is correct. You can double check me by going to the Wilwood website and looking at the blueprints. I've sold several hundred of the old style M/C's and a handful of the new style.

Hold off is a delay in sending pressure , typically to the front brakes which allows the rears to apply first. This helps prevent locking up the front brakes when first hitting the pedal.

A residual pressure valve is mostly used for when the M/C is below the height of the calipers or wheel cylinders to prevent back flow of fluid. They used to be installed inside old drum brake M/C's to prevent the cups in the wheel cylinders from leaking from having no pressure on them. At rest the brake shoes are against a stop and there is no pressure in the system. When disc/drum combos became more popular, the OEM's removed the residual pressure valves from the M/C's and used expander springs in the wheel cylinders. A residual pressure valve added into a brake system may also help mask brake pad knockback to a degree. Knockback typically happens with fixed calipers and the rotors have an amount of run out - they push the pads away from the rotor which can cause a low pedal on first application