anyone run no power assist brakes???

[usa-69z]

Guys , im trying to workout if its a good move to get rid of the power booster and run a willwood master cylinder.

i need some honest advice on pedal feel / stopping power compared.
i currently have stock disc/drum setup in a 69 camaro.

[GregWeld]

All my cars use ONLY Wilwood manual master cylinder... but they also all have disc brakes all around.

So here's the deal...

You have to actually lift your leg and place your foot on the pedal... it ain't the one big toe stop that most power brakes are.

As far as stopping power - I can throw you right thru the front windshield... but I have to use my leg and not my big toe.

There's a couple of things that Wilwood will tell you. A 7/8" M/C will give you more pedal modulation -- a 1" will be a higher and harder pedal. I only use the 7/8". I also use a 6 to 1 pedal ratio - which you'll have to change from your current 4 to 1 ratio (which is what p/b's use).

[Vegas69]

69 with manual brakes is 8 to 1, SIR.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

69 with manual brakes is 8 to 1, SIR.

Figures you'd have a "pedal extension"....

[GregWeld]

You might also want to discuss this with the guys at Kore3....

[Blake Foster]

All the cars we build use only manual brakes, Rogers RedZed Camaro uses a wilwood 1" master and stock 69 camaro manual brake pushrod mounting hole using Baer 14" proplus front and rear and it is easy to drive on the street and work well on the track, the pedal effort is higher than a power setup but it also provides much more feel and is easier to modulate the brakes,. My Nova uses a wilwood tripple pedal set up with a 7/8 front and 1" rear master with baer proplu 14" brakes as well. it has a bit more effort than Rogers but that is how "I" like it.

[pokey64]

I was worried about going with manual brakes on my wife's camaro. Went 7/8" bore manual master with 12.8" rotors and 4 piston calipers. The setup works great for our street cruiser.

[Vegas69]

I've got a 1" Wilwood tandem on mine and it's great for road course/speed stop but I'd prefer a little more assist for autocross and street driving. Cold pads and lower speed need more leg. I'll likely go back to a 7/8 now that I have my knockback fixed.(Eventually)

[usa-69z]

thanx all for the replies ... what i have now is a booster and master (1inch)
from a 2008 holden commodore ( gto pontiac?) using stock rebuilt 69 brakes.. My car has been converted to right hand drive for australian roads and im currently fitting a clutch pedal as im fitting a tremec box.
Whats happened is where you would normally run the clutch master it now comes thru the firewall hitting against the large booster hence having to use none or possibly a 7inch size booster. this is all from the RHD conversion setup for the auto and not expecting to be fitting a manual g'box .

I notice there are a lot of different sizes/models mentioned ,, is there a optimum size/part number i should be checking out for my current braking setup?

thanx again

Gav

[GregWeld]

Gav ---

A lot of people use the "CORVETTE" manual M/C -- the '65 Corvette was available with OPTIONAL 4 wheel disc brakes -- so they have a front disc - rear drum master available.... and from '66 forward they were 4 wheel disc brakes. This master is very common from many sources.

Wilwood - and their website - has a ton of very good information about pedal ratio - how to calculate size - pressures etc.

When hooking up brake lines - it's helpful - as in CRITICAL - to know which reservoir actuates FIRST - because not all are set up for the front reservoir to go to the front brakes and the rear to the rear brakes. So you'll want to make certain you know what you have. Most of the time - if you're bench bleeding the master - you can see fluid movement in one reservoir just a nanosecond before the other side. The brakes need to be applied FIRST in Front...