stroker rod and piston opinions - Lateral-g Forums

**WSSix** · #1 02-26-2016, 07:58 AM

I'm getting close to putting together my stroker engine. Just going with a simple 383 topped with Ai's 200cc heads along with their 232/242 108 cam. Lift is 0.615 on this cam. I already have a Scat forged crank. I'm looking at rods and pistons now and just wanted some input from those that have more experience with this in case I've overlooked something or am missing anything. The car is just a street car. I won't be drag racing it. I'll have fun with it from time to time of course and may even autocross it or due an HPDE event. Point being, I'm not trying to set the world on fire with my combination. I just want a solid reliable build.

Since I need rods and pistons and am an engineer, I've tried to put some thought into my choices. Or, I'm just over thinking this which is typical of engineers.

I'm looking at Mahle forged pistons for a stroker running 6in rods. They have been recommended to me as being a quality piston with good sealing and low friction. They are listed as being 406g too which is lighter than the 5.7in rod pistons from Mahle.

For rods, I'm torn between H or I beam. Scat's procomp I beam rods are 605g, $300, and rated for the power I expect to make. Scat also has H beam QLS rods that are 569g but $550 for the set. I'm not trying to be cheap with my build but my understanding is H beam rods can be more difficult to fit the block and clear the cam. Is this correct? Are they worth it?

Eagle also has H beam rods but they are much heavier than the QLS Scat rods and only a little cheaper. Are Eagle rods that much better than Scat's?

All the rods I'm looking at are 6in, clearanced for strokers, and forged. I see no reason to go with 5.7in rods due to cost and the components being heavier. I realize I might not being going with the lightest components out there but I figure I might as well try to put some thought into my selections.

Opinions? Suggestions? Anything you think is relevant is welcome.

Not sure if it matters but the block has had steel 4 bolt straight caps installed with ARP studs. I intend or hope to run the stock windage tray and oil pan.

Thanks

TheJDMan · #2 02-26-2016, 01:17 PM

I assume you mean valve lift is .615 not cam lift? Is that a flat tappet or roller cam? I would recommend a retrofit hydraulic roller cam over a flat tappet cam any day. Also you need to check because many aftermarket SBC heads will allow for .600 valve lift max. IMO, you should be looking for a cam with something in the area of .540 to .550 valve lift. I'm running an Edelbrock #22015 retrofit hydraulic roller kit in my 383 and it has very good street manors around town with 210cc RHS heads but will still make around 500hp.

In my build I used a complete Scat forged rotating assembly with 5.7" I beam rods. I did not have any cam interference issues but the block does need to be clearance in some areas.

Just be sure to verify the max valve lift of your heads before buying a cam.

**WSSix** · #3 02-26-2016, 03:43 PM

Thanks Steve. The heads and cam combo are coming from the same company, Advanced Induction. 0.615 is not specified as cam or valve lift, but considering they will use Manley 0.650 lift valve springs, I think it's safe to assume they mean valve lift.

Also, I'm a Gen 2 LT1 not Gen 1 LT-1. I'm factory roller so I'm good there.