C6 Z06 Master Cylinder Help

[ProTouring442]

Here is a question for some of our brake experts; On my 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass ("442") I will be utilizing the C-6 Z06 brake calipers on all four corners (6 piston front, 4 piston rear) and I am trying to make up my mind as to what master cylinder to use. I will be running a vacuum power booster and I am looking into the following:

1) Run some sort of tandem master cylinder suited to the Z06 brakes.

2) Utilize 2 single master cylinders on a custom bracket where I can adjust the bias.

Which do you think would be the better choice?

If I use a tandem master cylinder, any ideas as to which one and where I can get it?

If I use the 2 single master cylinders, what size piston should I use on the front and rear master cylinders?

If Bert runs away with the alien, will Jessica still want to commit herself to a home for the sexually frigid?

Find out the answers to these questions and more...

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[Bowtieracing]

Hello Bill!!

I had this very similar problem when i was thinking my brake system. I went back and fort with Wilwood master cylinder and stock corvette . I got a lot of help from Tobin @ KORE3. I can tell you he really knows all about brakes.

My choise was DSEs easy bolt booster cylinder combo. I would personally stay away from tandem systems. Looks cool but complex .

Ps Meaning of life is 42 !

[Apogee]

42...I knew I should've asked what the question was first.

As for your setup, a single tandem MC is going to be your simplest solution, although you won't have the advantage of being able to adjust your bias via the balance bar. This can be a significant advantage when you've got an imbalanced car and/or brake system, but since you're starting out with fairly well balanced car and brakes, it's not as significant of an advantage.

The C5/C6 brakes like some pressure, so a dual 9" diaphragm booster like used on the LS1 F-bodies (DSE kits, etc) with a 1" bore MC (LS1, C5, C6, Wilwood, etc) is a pretty safe combination. We've had many customers run 1" bore MC's with smaller dual 8" boosters as well as the OE single diaphragm units, and it just increases the pedal effort proportionally. Just be sure that you've got adequate vacuum from your engine and you should be okay.

Tobin
KORE3

[ProTouring442]

Originally Posted by Apogee

42...I knew I should've asked what the question was first.

As for your setup, a single tandem MC is going to be your simplest solution, although you won't have the advantage of being able to adjust your bias via the balance bar. This can be a significant advantage when you've got an imbalanced car and/or brake system, but since you're starting out with fairly well balanced car and brakes, it's not as significant of an advantage.

The C5/C6 brakes like some pressure, so a dual 9" diaphragm booster like used on the LS1 F-bodies (DSE kits, etc) with a 1" bore MC (LS1, C5, C6, Wilwood, etc) is a pretty safe combination. We've had many customers run 1" bore MC's with smaller dual 8" boosters as well as the OE single diaphragm units, and it just increases the pedal effort proportionally. Just be sure that you've got adequate vacuum from your engine and you should be okay.

Tobin
KORE3

I was hoping you wold chime in! I will need to place an order for the rear brake bracket kit you sell... Do you sell the master cylinder as well? I am running the power booster from a '79 Trans Am WS6 (4 wheel disc dual diaphragm unit) and I think it should work quite well. If you do sell the master, which do you think is the best?

By the way, did you read all of the Hitchhikers Books? "Mostly Harmless, the 5th book in the increasingly inaccurately named Hitchhikers trilogy."

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[Bowtieracing]

Originally Posted by ProTouring442

I was hoping you wold chime in!

Me too!!

Tobin and Bill,

Can i have your opinions about the brake line sizes. This has been talked before and i even got recomendation from DSE to run 3/16" line all the way.

Do agree with this ? I am just about to order some tubing .

Originally Posted by ProTouring442

By the way, did you read all of the Hitchhikers Books? "Mostly Harmless, the 5th book in the increasingly inaccurately named Hitchhikers trilogy."

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Oh yeah Bill , i have em all - all five of the worlds only 5 part trilogy

[Apogee]

My brother has got the 5 part D. Adams trilogy...so I borrow them whenever I feel like running back through the series. I find it works well for books and tools among other things.

Back to brakes, we typically stock new 98-02 F-body MC's and sell them for $125 each. These are quite nice for the inclined installations since the reservoir is tilted to match, but work fine on the horizontal installations as well. For the money, it's tough to beat. The C5/C6 MC's are very similar to the F-body, but with a flat fill cap/reservoir and the ports on the opposite side (driver's instead of passenger's). Port threads vary between the two as well, but all are going to be metric ISO.

Other 1" bore MC's from the aftermarket suppliers like Wilwood, CPP, etc are alson decent options, depending on what you're looking for.

For a 4-wheel disc car, 3/16" lines work well. Smaller diameter lines experience less expansion under pressure than larger diameter lines, so in the interest of reducing system compliance, 3/16" lines are a good thing. You will need to swap hard line fittings anywhere you're converting from 1/4" though, such as the hard line from the combination valve/distribution block to the back of the car. Still should be a standard tube nut.

Tobin
KORE3

[Bowtieracing]

Hehehee we seem to share same kind of sence of humor as well as passion for good brakes. Dont say you like brunets too

Okay back to business... I found inlinetube has lot of different size fittings for 3/16" so i start shopping there. I want to stainless since i have bought tools wich can flare ss tube.

Thank you Tobin for correct answers again

[Joey316G]

on another note, what are people using for proportional valves and or distribution blocks on these setups?