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  #1  
Old 03-02-2008, 04:17 PM
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Default need help with window glass install

How do you guys install the glass into the bottom channel? The factory glass has a rubber piece molded to fit the bottom of the glass to hold the glass in position. Of course, those are now hard as a rock and cannot be removed without destroying them.

Are these available? The local resto shop says nobody makes them, they just use silicone. My thoughts are there's no way to hold the glass in there straight like the factory rubber piece does. Do you use silicone and maybe shim the glass in place until it sets up? Or do you know where to buy those pieces?

I measured the old stuff and it appeared to be 1/16" thick, so I bought a sheet of 1/16" neoprene. But no matter how hard I tap it with a rubber mallet, and every known slippery substance used, it will NOT go all the way down in the channel, comes up about 1/4" short of the factory glass. The new glass is actually a few thou thinner, so that isn't the issue, it appears to be not having the factory rubber pieces, not being able to find them, or not being smarter than I am!!!!!!!

Jody
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Old 03-02-2008, 04:49 PM
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Had the same problem, my local glass co gave me some material to use on my vent windows. it was about 1/16" thick and i doubled it up on the side window track. Has'nt worked out quite that well so I'll be interested also in what other people have done.
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:00 PM
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Metro rubber has several glass setting u channels available. http://metrommp.com/metrocart/PartLi...e=U%2DChannels

or shim the glass and glue in place so you are not waiting.
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Musclerodz
Metro rubber has several glass setting u channels available. http://metrommp.com/metrocart/PartLi...e=U%2DChannels

or shim the glass and glue in place so you are not waiting.

thanks Mike. The stuff that I need is different than any I see on that link. The glass is .238" thick, the channel is .350" wide. So the rubber has to be .056" thick or so, and about an inch deep on each side.

Jody
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Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

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American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
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McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:44 PM
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What about using plain rubber sheet? Should be able to find locally.
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Musclerodz
What about using plain rubber sheet? Should be able to find locally.

that's what I did. The closest I could get was 1/16" (.0625") and it needs to be about .056". Should be close enough to work, but it does not.

I just tried to remove the glass from the channel, and broke the new glass. So tomorrow I'll be calling some glass shops to get another passenger side window (factory tint) and I'll bring both to them and let them install them. It's always the stupidest things that hold you up.

Jody
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:24 PM
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Jody,
We have a glass guy that is from back in the 60's and is still doing it today, he just put some new glass in an elky we did and he said that with new glass the stuff that GM and others doesn't work very well. He used windsheld urethane, put's it in the track than put's the window up but put's cardborad at the top to space it down. the only problem with this is that once you glue it this way, if the window brakes you will need new tracks. Hope this helps. By the way car looks awsome
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:15 PM
J2SpeedandCustom J2SpeedandCustom is offline
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Jody our glass guy here urethane's them in as well. Is the chevelle glass the same as the impala?
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  #9  
Old 03-02-2008, 07:17 PM
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Default

well, I'm going to check the local glass guys and see if they have some rubber sheet or similar that's just a bit thinner. Hopefully as I don't want to urethane it if I can avoid it. The thin rubber sheet worked for 40+ years on this car!

Jody
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #10  
Old 03-02-2008, 07:45 PM
ProdigyCustoms ProdigyCustoms is offline
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Another vote for glueing them in. If they would have had urethane in 1964, they would have glued them in. Clean the channel real well (I am sure you did), load the channel with urethane, press the glass into the channel and duck tape the channel to the glass until it sets. Try to catch the urethane at 70% hard with a razor to clean up the excess. Done!
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