intermediate crank signal - Lateral-g Forums

awesometool · #1 09-19-2009, 04:32 PM

I'm having trouble with intermediate crank signal so when I turn engine over the rpms are at 0 but when I let off the key it jumps up then right back to 0. It will not start with no crank signal. I have tried changing starter, disconnected alternator, pull one fuse at a time, reground battery to block and frame, 00 starter wire, disconnected the dfu's, disconnected the fans, tec unit is direct batttery power and grounded well.

I do not have and electric water pump and the crank wire is well insulated. If the spark plugs are removed it has a perfect crank signal. I done working on it for today and I try again tommorrow. Any help would be appreciated.

**camcojb** · #2 09-19-2009, 04:56 PM

my initial thought was your switched 12 volt wire to the ECU (every one I've worked on has one, not sure on the Electromotive) does not have 12 volts when cranking. Needs to be the ignition fuse or similar, many have twelve volts with the key on, but not when cranking. But then you said it has a signal with the plugs out, so that makes no sense.

I still would double check this switched 12 volts wire, even going to battery voltage if need be tio make sure that is not the cause.

Jody

awesometool · #3 09-19-2009, 05:27 PM

thanks, I did run a direct to the battery for the acc turn on power supply to test it. I thought it might be cutting out but it did not help.

**camcojb** · #4 09-19-2009, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awesometool

thanks, I did run a direct to the battery for the acc turn on power supply to test it. I thought it might be cutting out but it did not help.

what is your cranking voltage? If it's dropping below 11-11.5 volts that can cause all kinds of issues with aftermarket efi. Have you tried jumping it to start, or a different battery?

Jody

awesometool · #5 09-19-2009, 06:21 PM

It does not drop that much. I also used the 70 amp stinger power supply that is for the radio it did not change.

**camcojb** · #6 09-19-2009, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awesometool

It does not drop that much. I also used the 70 amp stinger power supply that is for the radio it did not change.

your efi config is set for the correct tooth count on the crank wheel? I had one set for 58X and my early LS2 is 24X, no crank signal. This is for the LS engine. What engine/ignition are you running?

awesometool · #7 09-20-2009, 05:22 AM

It is a tec gt and 572. The crank is 58x that the gt requires. I'm going to supply power to the gt and ignition switch only then check it. I will also try jumping from my truck like you said.

awesometool · #8 09-22-2009, 05:28 PM

I,m going to call them tommorrow. Today I moved the battery three feet from starter on 2 gauge power lead, two positives for tec leads out of car direct battery, tec ground out of car direct battery, one crank ground out of car to battery, one jumper wire from starter out of car direct to battery and one 2 gauge out of car block negative direct to battery. Testing cranking voltage- at starter approx 12- at lead to tec 12.
But the tec at cranking drops to 9 and bouncing to 12.6.
It is like the tec is reading it incorrect.

Pantera EFI · #9 09-24-2009, 01:02 PM

My question is about the sensor you have fitted to your engine.

The GRAY HALL sensor is stock for the 60-2 (58-x).

I am NOT SURE if the TEC will accept a "HALL" intput.

Lance

awesometool · #10 09-25-2009, 03:01 PM

I have a hall but I did not install it. The tec can be set for both. I spoke with the president of tec for 10 mins. on how they install their system. He told me to look for any grounds off the engine to body. The starter must be on its own ground and positive direct to the battery. He was correct I had a 3/4" ground strap I installed prior to deciding to go with efi. five minute repair 25 hrs trying to figure it out. Thanks for taking the time to try and help me fix it.