Need Help Destroyed another shock

[Bow Tie 67]

So I noticed oil on the driver side frame after getting home from Motorstate, it turns out it is shock oil.







This is the second shock I have had an issue with. My subframe has no bumpstops, prior to my swaybar upgrade I bottomed one out and it leaked, now this.

The shocks have been on the car since summer of 09 with several track days and no incident. So here are some pics of the suspension and I'm wondering what loads will be placed on the upper and lower a-arms when contacting a stop. I'm running 600 lb springs and still had 3/4" compression available on both shocks. The car was setup right at the midway point of shock travel. Total travel is 4 1/4" with a 1/4" o-ring as a shock compression bump stop. So the effective shock travel is 4" at the limits.

I'm getting tired of shock damage as it gets expensive, not to mention down time on the car.

I'm thinking of adding a bump-stop to the bottom of the frame-rail for compression, and fabricating a bracket with the bump-stop contacting the upper a-arm adjustment turn-buckle. My concern is the loads that may be placed on the control arms when contacting a stop. I think having the upper bump-stop contact the a-arm at the cross-shaft would be better, but then I get into packaging problems with the sway-bar arm's travel and providing enough support for the stops mount. Help .................

Thoughts?

[Blake Foster]

maybe try adding a bump stop on the shock shaft.
that damage to the shock "looks" like it has Topped out, extended too far???
to pull it appart like that??

[Vegas69]

I agree with Blake, it looks to be under extension. Especially since you said you had 3/4" of shock travel left after the event.(Assuming by the oring position) You really need a stop under your upper control arm that it can rest on around full shock extension.

[Bow Tie 67]

Originally Posted by killer69

maybe try adding a bump stop on the shock shaft.
that damage to the shock "looks" like it has Topped out, extended too far???
to pull it appart like that??

Yep extended to far? or just loosened up and was pushed out by internal pressure.

[clill]

At full travel you don't want the threads in that shock to have to do the work of holding it together. You need some kind of stop. At full travel is it the shock that stops it ?

[Bow Tie 67]

Originally Posted by clill

At full travel you don't want the threads in that shock to have to do the work of holding it together. You need some kind of stop. At full travel is it the shock that stops it ?

Yes it is.

[clill]

Not sure how to put a rubber snubber up top on your setup to limit travel. Early Shelby Mustangs used a cable to limit the travel.

[Bow Tie 67]

Thats what I'm thinking. Currently I'm using AN bolts to mount the shocks. They are longer than needed so I can add a cable or strap between them.

[wmhjr]

Originally Posted by clill

At full travel you don't want the threads in that shock to have to do the work of holding it together. You need some kind of stop. At full travel is it the shock that stops it ?

So what about the shocks on the back? The threads fully support everything all of the time, right? And the rear end is far heavier. What makes that different? I realize the spring rates are different.

[Bow Tie 67]

Earlier in the year I took a good look at the new Ridetech coil over shocks and really liked what they have to offer. As your average working stiff I could not justify the cost of changing a component that's doing its job, so it was only a passing thought. Well things change, and now I have a decision to make, have mine rebuilt or try another brand. I made a call to Ridetech and my mind was made up, I decided to try their new coil-overs.

I installed my new single adjustable shocks yesterday and took a short ride. So far so good, the car feels more responsive, the big test will be at the Heidts challenge in two weeks. I will leave feedback once the event is over.

In the mean time here are some pics. Due to the difference in shock design, the Ridetech shocks were more difficult to install. For one they actually have a nitrogen charge, so the shock wont stay collapsed and the mount bolt center line to shock body is a shorter distance. At first I thought I might have to grind for clearance on the lower control arm, but soon found if I pushed the suspension down as far as it will go I could set the shocks in and install the bolts. I double checked full suspension travel without the coils to make sure no binding would occur. SCORE !! there is enough clearance.

I'm still working on some suspension stops, but have faith in these shocks as they have real bumpers vs a 1/4" o-ring!!

clearance to lower control arm



Installed pic