D.S.E. mini tub

[crazy1969]

Ok 2 part question 1 can i use stock gas tank with the mini tud ( also going with there 4 link setup ) 2 Any one use there 4 link setup befor i order it up and how will it work with 1500 H.P.

[Speedster]

You should be able to use your stock gas tank since the clearance problem with mini-tubbing is when you move the leaf springs inboard. As far as the high hp capability, we will have to share notes as we go along. Down here, we are hoping to have the Quadra Link installed within the next month or so.

[JamesJ]

I understand that you can use the stock gas tank with the four link and mini tubs.

[camcojb]

The stock tank will work, but if you're going to run a full exhaust to the rear of the car you'll probably have to notch the front corners for tailpipe clearance.


Jody

[Mkelcy]

Originally Posted by Sparky67

Actually, I already have my Quadra Link crossmember installed on my 1967 Camaro. Yes, you can use the stock gas tank. If you wanting to have 1500 HP, then the weakest part of the sub frame is the rear sub frame rails. I already spoke to Kyle Tucker on this issue and suggested that they need to develop a rear sub frame kit that was already notched. Although, I did find this company that is developing rear sub frame rails mandrel bent out of 11 gauge steel. Here is their link http://autoweldchassis.com/cp.ivnu

Jeff

Take a look at http://www.21stcenturystreetmachines.com/products.php

Quoting: "The 21st CSM medium tub kit utilizes a stout 2x3x.125 mandrel bent tube as the foundation of the frame rails, replacing the thin walled 4 channel of the original unibody. The rail follows the contour of the floor and trunk pan necessitating a minimal amount of sheet metal work. The rail is welded in place and utilizes mid and rear crossmember to strengthen the rear clip for high horsepower applications. The trunk pan extensions and wheel tubs are included and necessitate a minimal amount of welding."

[Mkelcy]

Originally Posted by Sparky67

The orginal poster wanted DSE's Quadra link and DSE's Mini tubs, and if you use http://autoweldchassis.com/cp.ivnu
2 x 3 x 11 gauge steel is .125 inches thick.
rear sub frame rails then all you need to do is notch the sub frame. I really don't care for 21st Century mini tubs though. It doesn't have the quality of DSE's mini tub kit, and the factory look.

I also prefer the factory look of the DSE minitubs, but that narrowed rear frame member on each side leaves me a little nervous. As you note you need to narrow the Autoweld Chassis replacement frame rails, thus not really (in my mind at least) solving the issue.

[Mkelcy]

Originally Posted by Sparky67

There is only 2 ways to do it correctly, that is notch it like the DSE kit does. Another way is to have Autoweld Chassis CNC mandrel bend the notch. You could also probably specify a thicker gauge steel from Autoweld Chassis, while with 21st CSM then you are stuck with their kit. Now, what I heard is that when you mandrel bend steel. It actually stretches the metal, so actually it is thinner near the bends.

I'm curious why notching down to less than 1" wide either the stock sheet metal rear "frame" members or the Autoweld Chassis 2" x 3" tubing is "correct" for a 1500 hp application? I'm not an ME, but the notching would seem to compromise the strength of those frame members to resist both side loads and torsional loads.

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by Mkelcy

I'm curious why notching down to less than 1" wide either the stock sheet metal rear "frame" members or the Autoweld Chassis 2" x 3" tubing is "correct" for a 1500 hp application? I'm not an ME, but the notching would seem to compromise the strength of those frame members to resist both side loads and torsional loads.

I don't know how much load is really on the rails, but I am pretty sure DSE didn't design them for 1500 hp cars. At that power level you have a full-on race car and should probably have a full frame in the car.

Jody

[Mkelcy]

Originally Posted by camcojb

I don't know how much load is really on the rails, but I am pretty sure DSE didn't design them for 1500 hp cars. At that power level you have a full-on race car and should probably have a full frame in the car.

Jody

I agree with this as well. I was just curious why we were being told that the "correct" way to do a mini-tub for a 1500 hp car (the original poster's question) involved notching the rear frame rails, while the 21st Century non-notched mini-tub kit was dismissed as non-factory looking (I agree) and lower in quality than the DSE kit (I don't know on what basis the poster made this claim).

It seems to me the DSE version looks better and is probably fine for the street (don't know about the race track in a leaf spring car but I doubt the Tuckers' would recommend something that wasn't safe for how these cars are often used), the 21st Century version is likely stronger while less factory looking, thus giving us all a clear choice.

There's a tendency on these boards to dismiss any product put out by anyone who isn't a member of the club. I prefer to have the products discussed on their merits - hence my question.

[the camtender]

i have to admit,i questioned the strength of the frame rails after doing dse kit (per their instructions) so i added 1/8 on back side of rail and attached braces with plate from roll cage at the area in concern.hope i,ll be okay.making 900hp at flywheel.well be making hard launches at the drag strip,(1.38-1.40 60 foot).will have my answer soon 1-2 months