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Old 07-08-2012, 07:12 PM
mike23109 mike23109 is offline
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Question Troubleshooting HELP!

OK, I need some direction on where to go next. I pulled and rebuilt the 350 on my son's 1974 Camaro. While it was out I put an Edelbrock top end kit (heads, intake, cam & lifters) and an EZ efi kit on it. I also upgraded the ignition to a Crane electronic ignition module and coil. New wires, water pump and battery rounded out the install. When I tried my initial start the engine barely turned over, like the battery was weak or dead. I know it was new but sometimes you get a bad one. I charged the battery overnight and tried again. Same result.

Today, I took the battery back and had it checked in the store. It checked out OK. I took the Optima out of my other car and installed it in the Camaro. Same issue. Now I have ruled out the battery. I double checked all of the wiring and it appears to be correct.

I figure it has to be the starter. Took it off and brought it to the O'Reilly's to have it checked. Spins pretty good but no load on it at the store. I figure its not too expensive so I get another starter/solenoid. Reinstall and go to fire it up. Now, it spins a little better but still not enough to start it.

Any suggestions on where to go/what to do next? I'm at my wits end!!!
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Old 07-08-2012, 08:28 PM
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Have you turned the eng over by hand with a socket on the crank bolt with or w/o the plugs in? If so does it spin ok?
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Old 07-08-2012, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intocarss View Post
Have you turned the eng over by hand with a socket on the crank bolt with or w/o the plugs in? If so does it spin ok?
that would be my next check. Also, make sure the engine has a good chassis ground.
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Old 07-08-2012, 10:04 PM
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Retard your timing a good amount and give it another crank. (Turn the distributor clockwise) Also, you can check your connections and cable by doing a voltage drop test. Take your volt meter and attach your leads to each end of the cable. You shouldn't be seeing much over a few tenths of voltage drop. You can also check your ground by using one lead on the negative battery post to your engine block. (In a different area than your ground attachment) These tests must be done cranking.
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Old 07-09-2012, 09:20 PM
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I replaced the ground wire and checked that it has good contact with the alternator bracket. Still the "dead battery" turnover.

With the plugs in it takes about 35 ft/lbs to turn the engine over by hand. I took the plugs out and it was about 30 ft/lbs to turn it by hand. I don't know if this is high, low or just right but it didn't seem to bad. I double checked and the belts didn't seem too tight either.

Just for giggles, I tried the starter with the plugs out. Boy did the engine turn over just fine. What could that mean? Do I have the distributor out of phase? Or is there something else I'm missing.

Thanks for your suggestions.
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Old 07-09-2012, 10:20 PM
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Did you take my suggestion on the timing?
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Old 07-09-2012, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike23109 View Post
I replaced the ground wire and checked that it has good contact with the alternator bracket. Still the "dead battery" turnover.

With the plugs in it takes about 35 ft/lbs to turn the engine over by hand. I took the plugs out and it was about 30 ft/lbs to turn it by hand. I don't know if this is high, low or just right but it didn't seem to bad. I double checked and the belts didn't seem too tight either.

Just for giggles, I tried the starter with the plugs out. Boy did the engine turn over just fine. What could that mean? Do I have the distributor out of phase? Or is there something else I'm missing.

Thanks for your suggestions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vegas69 View Post
Did you take my suggestion on the timing?
time to look at ignition timing. Too advanced will definitely cause it to spin hard. For a quick test you could simply turn the distributor clockwise a bit and see if it improves or starts.
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Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:08 PM
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good leads so far but i will add, hows your valves adjusted? no bananas in your tail pipe?
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:30 PM
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At 30ft/lbs or 35ft/lbs on a complete eng... you are good there. I didn't think about "to much timing" because you didn't mention if it was trying to fire or it was just turning over hard. Do as the others said and back off the timing and try again
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:53 PM
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When you put that top end and cam in did you degree the cam? If not your cam could also have some additional advance in it adding some compression during cranking. Also as Todd mentioned if your ignition timing is to advanced then it will cause cranking problems for sure.

So bottom line did you double check where TDC is and cam timing then drop the dizzy in knowing it was close or just use the marks on the cam gears and balancer? Those marks aren't always accurate, that may be your problem.
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