Pro filer heads?

[markss28]

So has anyone ran these before? I'm looking into upgrading my sbc with new heads and a hydraulic roller for my short block 388. Looking for some ideas on how big to go and cam to use. Any thought are appreciated.

[uxojerry]

Since nobody responded, check out weingartner racing as he has a complete custom ported top-end package for a great price.

[intocarss]

I know some people ran them on drag race engines and were happy

[gerno]

I was thinking about putting on a set of the 210cc heads with 2.08 valves and a custom cam before I went all in on suspension upgrades first. Seems they have good flow numbers and make good power for a reasonable price. Only draw back was that after putting money into the heads, rockers, girdle and custom roller cam it seems close to what you could build a 6.0 LS for. I'm still trying to decide what to do for the next step in my project. If you end up getting a pair I'd like to hear your thoughts on them

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by markss28

So has anyone ran these before? I'm looking into upgrading my sbc with new heads and a hydraulic roller for my short block 388. Looking for some ideas on how big to go and cam to use. Any thought are appreciated.

Heads are an "it all depends" question... Depends on the numbers on your cam - depends on the static compression you currently have and what you want to end up with - depends on what kind of motor you're trying to build and what tranny you're running and rear end gears and tire diameter...

If you get everything matched RIGHT - you'll have a screaming fun to drive package... but just buying "heads" without a lot of other stuff factored into it - can give you a lazy zzz motor with kool parts that doesn't work worth a damn.

For instance --- My (sold it) 56 Nomad was 4032 pounds - ran a 26" tire - 700r4 with a 2800 stall converter - 3:73 gears... a 408 ci Dart Block with tiny little Dart 180cc heads.... It was/is the best motor I've ever had in a car. HUGE torque right off idle - shook windows and set off alarms - and would idle perfectly in traffic etc. Made 550 ft lbs of torque at 4600 rpms -- and 525 hp at 5600 rpms. My point is that the car needed torque because it was a big fat heavy pig ---- and since it was a street hot rod -- it needed to be fun to drive at street speeds. If you're building a race car / street car - then you might need a completely different combo...

[IMPALA MAN]

I'm sure no one thinks of this however it needs to be considered ANY TIME you change cylinder heads. Anyone who has done a 1st Gen Camaro with a steering box or any other non-rack and pinion cars, knows that header to steering box interference seems to always be an issue. That being said, it is critical that you make sure you will have clearance with the new heads. Why would there not be the same clearance you ask? Because not all cylinder heads are the same dimensions. Anytime you stay with factory heads you are pretty safe. When you start getting aftermarket (especially aluminum) heads, you should check first. If you have plenty of room around the steering box, then no need to worry. For reference, the most difference I have seen from factory to aftermarket, is around 5/8" wider per side. This means the header will be 5/8" closer to the steering box and 5/8" closer to the factory A/C box. Nothing is worse than getting the heads installed, engine dynoed, installed and then the last thing, installing the headers only to find out they don't fit. This is not a statement suggesting that ProFiler heads are wider. It is a post suggesting that whatever brand you go with, to check first. For reference: if you measure across a Small Block Chevy with factory heads it should be right at 18". This measurement is taken across the front of the engine at exactly the left and right front header bolt holes. If you measure below the header bolt holes it will be less. Above, and it will be more. The surface where the header bolts to the cylinder head sets at a 5 degree angle.
Best of luck on your cool project and feel free to PM me if you need any additional information.

[uxojerry]

How about some details on your engine, desired goals and budget. I just finished ordering a new 23 degree top end for my sbc 427 and am pretty current on your options.

Advice in this thread that is spot on: Buy a matched top end with cam for best results, and be aware that off the shelf headers may have some fitment issues if you go with a raised runner type of head.

Good luck with your build!

[markss28]

Thx to all for replying. Took a while but I really do appreciate all the thoughts.
For the motor its a SBC 388 11.1, Im looking for 195cc 2.05 1.6 valve heads. The Cam will be a lunati VooDoo Hyd Roller. Car has a 700R4 with 2600-2800 stall
3.73 gears. Car makes good power now with super awesome ebay heads and flat tappet cam LOL! Car weighs in about 3500lbs with stereo, AC, and full interior. Just want to make more power.

LS would be an option if it would not carry a 10K tag to do the change over. I could buy a used short block from a truck but would like all new internals (3k), Better heads (2K), cam (400), fuel system (2K), headers (1K), and a whole bunch of little pieces and parts plus tuning (2K). All this is a ruff estimate. If I could do it for less than I would.

Sticking with my short block I can do the head and cam swap for 2 grand.