Block Storage Opinion/Input... - Lateral-g Forums

**214Chevy** · #1 07-24-2014, 06:51 PM

I'm about to pull the trigger on a block (maybe). At first, I was gonna just buy the block unmachined and store it until I was ready to assemble it then get it honed, bored, etc. But, the manufacturer gave me a stellar deal on doing all the machine work plus free shipping if I let them do everything. It's almost too good to pass up. My question is, if I'm not ready to assemble it until 6-12 months how, much of a chance am I taking by letting it sit up and allowing flash rust/condensation, etc to build up. I know if it's a deal today, it'll be another deal tomorrow, so to speak. And I know to keep it wrapped up super tight. I was also told to buy some of those large desiccant gel packs and lay them on the block to keep moisture out, but I don't know how well that works for my assumed length of time. So, can any of you guys give me some insight and opinions on this and what should I do? Like, should I just wait right until I'm ready to assemble it.

Che70velle · #2 07-24-2014, 07:02 PM

Marcus, give me a shout!

**MODO Innovations** · #3 07-24-2014, 08:22 PM

I found a link for you that has some helpful info.http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=77132
With the humidity we have had lately here in Texas I would look into the products suggested in the link.

20+ years ago I started to make a small tool maker's vise out of a chunk of steel. I surface ground the base and jaws then sprayed them with a LPS product, wrapped them in a red rag and put them in my tool box. About 5 years ago I found the forgotten vise and unwrapped it. To my surprise it only had a small amount of surface rust on the edges of the base. There are some good products out there for this application.

Jay Hilliard · #4 07-25-2014, 10:56 AM

So its a RHS 427 cast iron block? I would do as you mentioned and also spray it down with Gibbs or similar product.

Any way to keep it in your house in a bag of course as your house is climate controlled?

OBeer-WAN-Kenobi · #5 07-25-2014, 11:46 AM

I wouldn't put it in a "bag" unless that bag is made out of oil paper or something. I had an engine that was wrapped in plastic in my shop and it was the only thing that DID rust. Moisture constantly condensed inside the bag. I'd spray it down really good with some light oil or water displacing lubricant and just leave it out in the open personally.

71RS/SS396 · #6 07-25-2014, 11:46 AM

I would want to finish hone it with a torque plate, using the head gaskets and bolts I planned on using on the engine.

**214Chevy** · #7 07-25-2014, 11:50 AM

Naw Jay, it's the iron, Dart LS block and Dart was going to do all the machine work on it.

Not a chance of me keeping it in the house. Shoood, my wife fusses enough about all my tennis shoes all over the house. She'd kill me if I stored a big box containing an engine block that she couldn't move around or out of the way for 6-12 months. Now, if I needed to store it in the house for a week or two...cool. Besides, she doesn't bother me about any of my car stuff and that's why we built a detached garage 2 years ago, cuz she wanted all the boxes out of the attached house garage. Therefore, since I have a detached garage out back, that's why there's not a snowballs chance in hell of keeping it in the house. And since she doesn't bother me and question me about money being spent on car stuff, I'd rather keep it that way. Remember that old cliche..."If mama ain't happy, ain't nobody happy?" Well, right now, she's happy and I want her to stay that way. LOL!! Also, still trying to decide if I'm gonna go with the RHS as well too.

HEEP · #8 07-26-2014, 07:30 AM

To keep it in the house, all you would need to do is get a piece of glass and lay it on top of the block. Instant coffee table. What wife would not want a new coffee table. Not really sure what the issue is. Do this and let us know how it works out. Haha

tmadden · #9 07-26-2014, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HEEP

To keep it in the house, all you would need to do is get a piece of glass and lay it on top of the block. Instant coffee table. What wife would not want a new coffee table. Not really sure what the issue is. Do this and let us know how it works out. Haha

Funny

**Hydratech®** · #10 07-26-2014, 04:27 PM

Slather the absolute pee out of it with WD-40 and have a good day as far as corrosion (I'm talking about a 4-6 pack of cans in anywhere you can stick the straw till it is pouring out)) (let the first coat dry for a day or two and then hit it again). Reading this thread had one glaring question that came to mind, and that is the classic "select fit" process. How can a block be finish honed if the pistons that will accompany it are not on hand? Let's say that you want ___ of clearance to each piston, yet the pistons aren't in hand for the machinist. Yes, tolerances have tightened up considerably over the years with certain quality off the shelf parts, but I would not want a block that was 'finished' until the pistons were matched against the selective cylinders per tolerance variation. Every time I have built an engine, I do not let the block get honed until each piston is assigned to its respective cylinder and that cylinder is honed to perfection to match the 'slug' that will be rockin and rolling in that hole. You can hone a cylinder for 'select fit', but working a piston for clearance isn't 'proper' where I'm from... And then there is the discussion of the piston ring types, and the selective hones / finishes that should accompany the particular type of piston ring, right? My advice is have them hone short of 'spec' so that a finish hone can be done when ready to actually build (selectively piston to cylinder x 8).

Thoughts? Yeah, go pee in my beer (I know, I know)