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  #571  
Old 02-24-2012, 11:43 AM
cencalc6 cencalc6 is offline
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Great Job!
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  #572  
Old 02-25-2012, 05:27 AM
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Good progress on your rolling jigsaw puzzle Wayne.
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  #573  
Old 02-27-2012, 08:12 PM
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Looking good Wayne. Nice to see the updates.
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  #574  
Old 02-27-2012, 10:15 PM
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Default Looking good!

Nice to see things coming together, Wayne. Thx for the updates.

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  #575  
Old 02-28-2012, 12:43 AM
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Thanks every body. Saturday I went out an finished the Dynamat behind the pedals on the fire wall. Today we started the wiring. We installed the fuse block and laid out some of the dash wiring.
We also put the rear end back in the car. We noticed the top shock mount looks like its not letting the bolt go straight through the end of the shock. I'll go take a picture and post it now.

If you look at the rubber in the shock mount where the bolt goes through you can see what I'm talking about. If I disconnect the bottom of the shock and tighten the top the shock will angle away from the bottom mount. Its like they are not in line with each other.



These two pictures are with the top and bottom bolts through but not tight.
I think its because the frame rails and the cradle have a little different shape where they mount together.
Let me know what you think.
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  #576  
Old 02-28-2012, 12:51 AM
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That can be remedied by moving your rear end back or you pinion angle down. It's a little extreme for my taste. Clearly, I wouldn't move it if it's where it belongs. These setups should've never been engineered with a poly bushing. They need spherical bearings and that's another option if it ends up being a CAR problem.
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  #577  
Old 02-28-2012, 01:43 AM
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Wayne, those last couple pictures remind me of a few other G-Bar/Prodigy bar setups I've seen. Dougie Fresh misted my car with shock fluid on a road trip, and it was because the shock had been side loaded. Gregg B (Gandalf) had a very similar issue, possibly the same issue. When Gregg was trouble shooting the issue, he was told to adjust it by changing the pinion angle, then by having different length control arms built if the former solution failed, which it did. Ultimately it was determined to be a problem with the bracketry on the housing.

Hopefully your situation can be fixed easily.

Keep pluggin' away!

Matt
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  #578  
Old 02-28-2012, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vegas69 View Post
That can be remedied by moving your rear end back or you pinion angle down. It's a little extreme for my taste. Clearly, I wouldn't move it if it's where it belongs. These setups should've never been engineered with a poly bushing. They need spherical bearings and that's another option if it ends up being a CAR problem.
Todd is correct. I hope pinion angle will fix this but Im afraid there may be too much angle. I would go with the spherical bearing solution also.
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  #579  
Old 02-28-2012, 07:06 PM
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I doubt the pinion angle is set because the engine and trans have never been put in the car sense the work was done. I'll wait to see how it looks when we get that far then deal with it.

Today we fit the DSE battery hold down in the trunk and put the flaming river kill switch in temporarily. They will need to come out to paint the trunk later on.




I was thinking of using this fuse link for the by pass to keep memory on radio and ECU with a 5 amp fuse in it. I like the one AAW has with the breaker that resets itself but a little expensive.



Here's the AAW auto reset jumper $24
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Last edited by waynieZ; 02-29-2012 at 06:04 PM.
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  #580  
Old 02-28-2012, 07:09 PM
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The fuse holder style is all I've ever used wayne -- it works perfectly. Just remember to keep a bunch of replacement fuses handy because you forget and jump in and hit the key - and badaboom - the fuse is GONE...

Ask me how I know?!?!
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