Project FNQUIK

[waynieZ]

I have a small update but first a question. I also asked in LSX conversions.
If I drop my motor mount point down 1/4"-3/8" will this give me any difference in my tranny mount height or will it just carry the same amount I drop to the mount? How many degrees could I gain either way if dropping the same amount if from the engine mount to the trans mount is 44" ? Or is this a crazy question?

Thanks in advance

Here's the reason why I ask.

This is what I have for space under the oil pan to my frame. about 5/8" I'm close to 3.5 - 4 degrees down now.





Here is what I have between my G Force cross member and the transmission mount. (That's a 2x4 on the flat) I could also use more room to keep the 4l85 lower in the tunnel. I need room for a connection on the drivers side.



Spaceman and I fit the passenger header in and it fits with nothing hitting but some are close. collector to the floor is about 3/8" and to the idler arm is a c hair.



02 sensor is a no go for sure it will have to be moved to the outside of the collector.



The frame mount it almost touching the header tube it will be trimmed.

[Jay Hilliard]

Wayne,

Because you have an 4 deg down angle, lowering the front will lower the rear of trans slightly more. 1/4' lower in front should lower back of trans close to 3/8".

If their was no angle, it would be the same, because it would be on a parallel plane.

[waynieZ]

Thanks Jay. I figured the drop would get larger the further away from the lowering point because of the pitch but couldn't get my mind to figure it out.

[waynieZ]

Worked in the garage again yesterday. We lifted the motor to get the drivers side header in and put the metal spacer under the trans mount for the test. I got 3.80 degrees down the way it is. The best guess on the frame for level is .40 degrees down so 3.40 for the final angle. The rear needs to be worked on we changed shocks and didn't set ride height.

Both of the ARH headers are in and there is a ton of room on the drivers side, at least an inch away from any tube to the steering box. The collector is within 3/8" of the drivers side floor. The passenger side has plenty of room accept the idler arm was touching at full right lock. I adjusted the stop on the A arm and it's taken care of. The passenger side frame mount needs the upper rear corner trimmed, we will remove 1/2" diagonally. The headers look to have enough room to go back an inch without a problem which would probably take care of the frame mount and idler touching, but make the collector closer to the floor. with the 4l80 it would make the trans even tighter in the tunnel. Moving it forward the idler would prevent it. One thing is the 02 sensors won't fit where they have the bungs on the inside towards the trans on the 4l80 which has a very wide pan on it, but with the narrower T56 should fit. ?

I used a G Force 4l80 cross member and the trans mount needed a spacer. Spaceman made it from 1" square tubing. The only thing is, the cross member is the lowest piece under the car. I can see it being a problem when we hit the road. (figuratively I hope. ).

Here are a few pictures from underneath the car. The headers are even or maybe a little above the bottom of the sub frame.









From above near steering box.

This is deceiving there is 1" from every tube.






This swap has
S&P swap plates to keep the bellhousing mount surface in the same place
American Racing Headers 1-7/8" 3" collectors. Very well made.
Energy suspension motor mounts to fit the 69, 350 SBC frame mounts.
An AuotKraft oil pan kit.
A G Force 4l80 cross member. Super Beefy.

[awr68]

Quick question. Is this swap being problematic? If so, why would it be any different than a standard LSx swap? I thought these swaps have been figured out by now?

[waynieZ]

Hi Tony, Mostly they have been, but I had a set of headers I wanted to use ARH so I called them and they told me they used the S&P swap plates. I got the ones that put the block in the same place as the SBC. I got a 4l85 and motor in a connect and cruise kit from GM. The T56 and 4l60s fit in the tunnel better than this trans does (Especially since I had the tunnel raised)mostly because the 4l85 is so wide at the pan. If it was narrower I could stuff it into the tunnel and have a better drive angle. I don't really want to clearance the floor too much since its all finish painted.( My fault!) Right now the connection to the controller is right against the floor and I still need to connect the cable to it. It will be persuaded to make room.

[awr68]

I see. Thanks for the explanation. I figured there was something you were tiring to do that wasn't the norm. Nice to see it at this point of the build!

[waynieZ]

Thanks Tony, trying to get the cable operated hood figured, we made a couple of plate that Spaceman welded up for me.



This is a first test fit for the bottom.

[waynieZ]

We got the top part of the latch in place and are lining the bottom up to find the final location. We'll set and mount it.
Here's the starting location.







I tried to clearance the top holes on the radiator side to move the plate to the drivers side but it threw off the front piece that bolts to the header panel. Thank god for finish washers.

[snappytravis]

Originally Posted by waynieZ

We got the top part of the latch in place and are lining the bottom up to find the final location. We'll set and mount it.
Here's the starting location.







I tried to clearance the top holes on the radiator side to move the plate to the drivers side but it threw off the front piece that bolts to the header panel. Thank god for finish washers.

Wayne, weld a flat piece of 1/2 inch wide 1/8 inch strap to the bottom for your hood support. Cut the horizontal tab off the center support and drill a hole throught the top of the support then through the tab welded to the bottom of your lower hood bracket you built. Looking good. Progress,, that 's all we need is a little progress..