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Old 10-11-2012, 05:48 PM
revmopar revmopar is offline
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Default i need some help

I installed an LS2/t56 combo from a 2006 gto into a 67 gto and there is a rattle that I am trying to daignose in the engine, I found this youtube vid with the exact noise (not the car I am working on but the same noise) can anyone tell me what this is?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BB13b9ot6dA

Thanks in advance
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:31 PM
randy randy is offline
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almost sounds like a exhaust leak around the header. start it up whenever its really dark out and see if you see any spark coming from the headers
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:36 AM
WSSix WSSix is offline
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Loose rocker arm or bad piston slap.
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:56 AM
revmopar revmopar is offline
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thanks for the replys guys, it is for sure not exhaust leak as I have checked that and found nothing, it does not happen at idle only around 1800 rpms and up, I was wondering if the throwout bearing might be wrong but it does not go away when the clucth is depressed. I used a monster clutch with a f body slave cylinder and throwout bearing, could i have a mismatch there somehow?
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:39 PM
WSSix WSSix is offline
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If your noise is the same as the GTO, then it's the engine. I'm almost 100% that was an engine problem in that video. I say almost because I'm human and not perfect. If it were my car, I'd be going into the heads inspecting the valve train and springs. It's so simple to pull rocker arms and check springs on these engines. There is no valve lash adjustment. You just screw the bolts down and torque them.

If you're going to pull springs to inspect them, I prefer compressed air in each cylinder to hold the valves up. 30-40 psi does fine. You can use a simple lever action compressor or spend the money on a double compressor from Crane Cams.
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:47 PM
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Vince@Meanstreets Vince@Meanstreets is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSSix View Post
If your noise is the same as the GTO, then it's the engine. I'm almost 100% that was an engine problem in that video. I say almost because I'm human and not perfect. If it were my car, I'd be going into the heads inspecting the valve train and springs. It's so simple to pull rocker arms and check springs on these engines. There is no valve lash adjustment. You just screw the bolts down and torque them.

If you're going to pull springs to inspect them, I prefer compressed air in each cylinder to hold the valves up. 30-40 psi does fine. You can use a simple lever action compressor or spend the money on a double compressor from Crane Cams.
I agree, valve train from the speed of the tap.

OP, you can pick up a mechanics stethoscope to pin point the area/cylinder. you can do a cylinder kill test. I would not recommend removing the plug wire to maybe disco the injector connectors one at a time. See if the sound goes away.
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:45 PM
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I would install the proper valve springs on both sides. Yellow springs are Z06/LS2 style and are only about $60 new from SDPC.com. Are the head castings the same?

The factory rocker arm trunion bearings are notorious for failing as well. Get the Comp Cams trunion rebuild kit which is about $130. Takes about 10 mins per rocker taking your time with a press. Very cheap longevity/reliability upgrade. I do this on all the LS motors I build.

Also the factory LS2 chain should be run with a GM chain tensioner. As suggested you may want to make sure there is one in there. Good time to replace the crankshaft seal for no future worries. Order a new crank bolt or get an ARP reuseable one as well.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:05 AM
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Not related, but nice looking swap. I can't wait to do my LS1/t56 over the winter.
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Old 10-20-2012, 01:24 PM
WSSix WSSix is offline
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Was the cam retaining plate in place? You could move the cam in and out or side to side and all around? The cam should move in and out very very little and nothing else, period. If it's hitting the timing cover, there will be obvious marks on the cover. The chain guide is plastic or should be. You should not hear anything from the chain running against the guide.
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:53 PM
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Update; as it turns out the noise was deeper. It spun a rod bearing on the #7cylinder. It looks like the block is ok but the crank is shot. I think the customer is going with a stroker kit to replace the factory stuff, do any of the vendors on here sell rotating assemblies?
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