3 link vs triangulated 4 link - Why is one better?

[68454RS]

I know this has been discussed before, many times BUT, talking performance only, not cost, not installation, just performance, triangulated not lateral 4 link.
... I keep hearing the 3 link is so much better than a triangulated 4 link for auto-x performance and I don't understand why. If you take both set-ups and add the ridetech "R" joints on all ends, you would not have any binding, IMO, So,

4 link with all ridetech "R" joints
3 link with all ridetech "R joints

The 4 link would not have any binding, correct?
The 4 link would control any side to side movement, correct?

The 3 link would allow the rear to move side to side slightly with articulation due to the track bar, correct?

So what makes one better than the other?

I did put the complete Ridetech R joint kit in my Camaro and the articulation was just as Brett showed it in his R joint videos. My FFR 33 has the option of doing either and already has the 3 link bracketry if I want to go that route. I already have all the 4 link set up with all R joints. Remember that money is not the consideration here, strictly performance. What would I gain going to a 3 link?

[Tinker]

To do a proper 3 link you need more room for the upper link. Triangulated 4 links are good when there are space constraints. The shorter the upper links are( triangulated 4 link), the more your rear axle will "roll" and change pinion angle. The more travel, the worse this gets. An upper link closer in length to the lower links minimizes pinion angle change, but say goodbye to a back seat in an oem car.

Not only does the axle roll, but it will also somewhat induce rear steer in the axle housing in turning situations. One side of the car goes up, and one side goes down, shortening the wheelbase on one side, and lengthening the wheelbase on the other thus inducing rear steer. Properly engineered and adjusted systems will minimize these effects, but they still exist to some degree. The 3 link with panhard bar or watts link also is very simple to adjust rear roll center height. Are you racing it? Will you be tweaking on it during track days or autocross?

Just my .02.

[68454RS]

Originally Posted by Tinker

To do a proper 3 link you need more room for the upper link. Triangulated 4 links are good when there are space constraints. The shorter the upper links are( triangulated 4 link), the more your rear axle will "roll" and change pinion angle. The more travel, the worse this gets. An upper link closer in length to the lower links minimizes pinion angle change, but say goodbye to a back seat in an oem car.

Not only does the axle roll, but it will also somewhat induce rear steer in the axle housing in turning situations. One side of the car goes up, and one side goes down, shortening the wheelbase on one side, and lengthening the wheelbase on the other thus inducing rear steer. Properly engineered and adjusted systems will minimize these effects, but they still exist to some degree. The 3 link with panhard bar or watts link also is very simple to adjust rear roll center height. Are you racing it? Will you be tweaking on it during track days or autocross?

Just my .02.

I'll probably do some Auto-x but just for fun.

[Panteracer]

So my question is a torque arm an inverted 3 link
with a way longer arm??

I was looking at Art Morrison 3 link but upper arm looks short
vs a torque arm

Want to build a gutted street legal car with no rules compliance
or care about rear seat etc

Bob

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by Panteracer

So my question is a torque arm an inverted 3 link
with a way longer arm??

I was looking at Art Morrison 3 link but upper arm looks short
vs a torque arm

Want to build a gutted street legal car with no rules compliance
or care about rear seat etc

Bob

I was wondering how quick the torque arm would show up. Lol
That would be a great question for Blake, but haven't heard a peep from him in a long time.

[Panteracer]

I plan on going to good guys this weekend and
finally enjoy one.. no selling and no racing
I plan on talking to speedtech and others if
any they are there...been doing a lot of research
on line... had a ridetech 4 link and speedtech front but their early A-arms
only on another car.

I am pretty much sold on the Speedtech Extreme
front clip but still toying with torque arm vs 3 link
Maier a few years back stated Torque arm was
better than the 4 link with short arms...

Again Roadster shop full chassis is cool because you
can really set the car low.. my floor is mostly cut up
so that does not matter to me if I remove it

Car will be fully caged so that will help with some things

Bob