what hp will a 350 4 bolt main take

[kovert]

im kinda new to working on chevy..i am working on doin a chevy project and a mopar any way what kind of power do the 350 factory chevy 4 bolt main blocks take if suited with the proper internals???

i know the factory ford production hydr roller 302 block will take between 500rwhp and 600rw and thats a 2 bolt main...



the 350 will be grouped with 2 turbos so im trying to figure out if i need a aftermarket block or if the factory 350 4 bolt will work

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by kovert

im kinda new to working on chevy..i am working on doin a chevy project and a mopar any way what kind of power do the 350 factory chevy 4 bolt main blocks take if suited with the proper internals???

i know the factory ford production hydr roller 302 block will take between 500rwhp and 600rw and thats a 2 bolt main...



the 350 will be grouped with 2 turbos so im trying to figure out if i need a aftermarket block or if the factory 350 4 bolt will work

what is your hp goal?

Jody

[Blown353]

If you're starting fresh and running turbos I'd strongly recommend a good aftermarket block. There is no reason not to do it right from the get-go. Cheaper to build it once!

A stock block will take quite a bit of power but an aftermarket block with thicker cylinder walls will make more power even when everything else is equal because the thicker bores don't flex as much and the rings seal better. The more cylinder pressure you throw at it the more pronounced this becomes.

My car is making about 650 or so HP at the rear wheels using a .020 over stock 010 4-bolt block (studded) and has zero issues even with quite a few miles on it now. Things looked great last time I had it apart. However when I build a bigger cube shortblock it will be with a Dart block.

[Scotch]

With proper prep and machining, I've seen 350 4-bolt blocks approach 1,000 hp. They didn't have to LIVE there, but they could touch it without exploding.

"Proper Prep" includes complete "hot" machining done at 200 degrees F, aftermarket billet steel main bearing caps, ARP main bearing studs, Hard Blok up to the freeze plugs, and top-quality components throughout (billet crank, rods, etc.)

The block should be magnafluxed and sonic tested prior to starting anything, and either cryo treated or vibration treated before machining. Doing both wouldn't hurt.

~SP~

[deuce_454]

why not get a schafiroff power-adder long block.... it is built for boost and you wont have to modify the crap out of a stock SBC... and it propaby costs less too

[badmatt]

io know of a stock block with billet caps and a half fill living to 1200RWHP