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  #1  
Old 11-27-2009, 09:56 AM
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Default ls1 rod bolts

I have a LQ4 out of a silverado HD thats going in my car. im converting it to a carb setup with a 2216 cam and springs. i also plan on putting a 100hp shot of nitrous on the motor for straights. i keep hearing that i should go ahead and replace the rod bolts while i have the pan off. ive always resized rods when changing bolts but i hear that i dont have to resize these because of the fact that they are powder metal rods. can anyone verify this or give me their insight on this topic?
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:23 AM
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I have a LQ4 out of a silverado HD thats going in my car. im converting it to a carb setup with a 2216 cam and springs. i also plan on putting a 100hp shot of nitrous on the motor for straights. i keep hearing that i should go ahead and replace the rod bolts while i have the pan off. ive always resized rods when changing bolts but i hear that i dont have to resize these because of the fact that they are powder metal rods. can anyone verify this or give me their insight on this topic?
I would never swap bolts without re-sizing. But that's me, as it's a big deal if you have to repair it later.

I've heard some do it with success, but not worth the chance to me.

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Old 11-27-2009, 10:50 AM
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Default rod bolts

Agreed... you SHOULD resize them, as most aftermarket bolts have a slightly larger knurl or shank area. Do this as a test- if you cant lightly tap the bolt in all the way, it needs resizing, as the bolt will push material toward the rod pin, which will slightly squeeze the bearing ends.

Honestly, have you called ARP yet? I had heard that they make a replacement bolt that you don't have to resize, but I have yet to install any. I like to use the Wave bolts, or Katech rod bolts- and true the rods at the same time.

Either way you smoke it, replacing the rod bolts is cheap insurance, as the factor LS pieces are not the best.
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Old 11-27-2009, 11:05 AM
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Agreed... you SHOULD resize them, as most aftermarket bolts have a slightly larger knurl or shank area. Do this as a test- if you cant lightly tap the bolt in all the way, it needs resizing, as the bolt will push material toward the rod pin, which will slightly squeeze the bearing ends.

Honestly, have you called ARP yet? I had heard that they make a replacement bolt that you don't have to resize, but I have yet to install any. I like to use the Wave bolts, or Katech rod bolts- and true the rods at the same time.

Either way you smoke it, replacing the rod bolts is cheap insurance, as the factor LS pieces are not the best.
LS motors use bolts only no nuts
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Old 11-27-2009, 07:18 PM
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Here's the skinny on ls rods. Rod bolts are torque to yield so they are not reusable. The PM rods are cracked cap so they can't be resized. Measure your rods, replace any that are out of spec. Get a set of ARP bolts and get it back together!!
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:33 AM
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well i am NOT taking the motor apart. i was just planning on replacing the bolts while i had the pan off to put the new one on. i hear they are the weak link. just verifying that this is neccessary..
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:53 AM
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It is very common practice on LS motors. With traditional rods don't get the cap in the exact right place when you press in the bolts so you always need to resize. With LS motors the caps go back in the same place. Just make sure to do one at a time so you don't mix up the caps.
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