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  #1  
Old 02-18-2006, 01:12 PM
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McssGmachine McssGmachine is offline
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Default Hydra rev kit?

Is anybody running this on there setup? Give me the good,bad,and the ugly!
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  #2  
Old 02-18-2006, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McssGmachine
Is anybody running this on there setup? Give me the good,bad,and the ugly!
The good: works great, extends the rpm range of the engine, assuming the camshaft supports the additional rpm.

The bad: price to those on a limited budget.

The ugly: installing it with the heads in place. A small engine valve spring compressor helps a lot.

Jody
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Old 02-18-2006, 03:24 PM
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I was running one. Now switching to solid roller. They do help control lifter bounce since hydraulic roller lifters are on the heavy side. On my application, they extended theh rpm range by maybe 100-200 rpms. The biggest was it helped control bounce, which in effect does help rpms.
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Old 02-18-2006, 06:00 PM
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ProTouring442 ProTouring442 is offline
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I didn't know they were made... I have a Crane Roller-Hydraulic and I would love to rune a rev-kit. Who makes them?

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Bill
'72 442 "Inamorata"
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Old 02-18-2006, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProTouring442
I didn't know they were made... I have a Crane Roller-Hydraulic and I would love to rune a rev-kit. Who makes them?

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
'72 442 "Inamorata"
http://www.airflowresearch.com/pages/hydra_rev.htm

Jody
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Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #6  
Old 02-18-2006, 06:23 PM
Blown353 Blown353 is offline
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I run a Hydra-rev, I picked up a few hundred RPM out of it (nothing else in the combo changed) but nothing exciting.

Installation is fairly easy *if* your heads are smooth under the valley area and have a center support. If not, you may not be able to run the kit at all or you will have to rig up custom bracing like I had to do with my Dart Pro-1's as they don't have a center support and the plate was flexing. I like to either press-in pins or drill and tap the heads and bolt (use red loctite) the spring plates to the head to keep the plates from "walking" around. If you rely on spring tension alone to hold them in place they'll walk around and may rub the pushrods.

The high-RPM problems with HR cams are caused by two things: the lifters themselves are quite heavy which means you need stiff valvesprings to keep them in line. Unfortunately you can't run tons of valvespring pressure to control the lifter on the lobes because you'll collapse the hydraulic portion. That's where the Hydra-Rev comes in, they apply a bit more pressure to the lifter only (helping to keep them on the cam) while not collapsing the lifter via the pushrod.

You'll see more gains from going to the new beehive springs and Ti retainers/keepers as they save a LOT of weight compared to standard dual-spring setups; best option with an HR is to run the rev-kit and beehives.

Another tip to possibly save you big bucks in the future: make sure you buy the cam ground on a billet core and have the pressed-on iron distributor gear installed (so you can run a long wearing iron gear on the distributor), and run a genuine GM melonized distributor gear. DO NOT RUN THE MSD MELONIZED GEAR. I've had two MSD melonized gears go bad on me with Comp HR's; one was 1/2 eaten up in about 7000 miles and the other completely wore through in 2200 miles which left me stranded and destroyed all the bearings. The reason for the billet core is once you start running decent valvespring pressure plus the pressure from the rev-kit you may very well experience lobe failure of a cast HR cam, the billet cam will not have this problem. Also buy a distributor with a slip-collar so you can properly set the distributor height (which control the gear mesh between the cam gear and the distributor gear.)

I have a set of Comp beehives and Ti keepers/retainers on the shelf in the garage waiting to be installed (along with a new billet HR cam, same grind); I've had them for months now just haven't got around to pulling the engine.

The best piece of advice here is not to go in with false pretenses. Never expect to make a high-winder out of a hydraulic roller. Using beehives and a hydra-rev I would plan on 6500 *max*, and that's an estimate depending on how agressive the lobes are-- you may start floating at 6000, and floating will KILL the springs and lifters in a heartbeat.

If you feel the need to spin higher then either go solid flat tappet or solid roller, and then you have cans of worms to deal with both.

A rev-kit is a MUST HAVE on a street solid roller IMO, as it keeps the rollers in contact with the cam at all times, preventing the wheel from "skidding" on the cam when on the base circle-- this in turn increases lifter life. Also, getting an SR to live and be reliable on the street is dicey, best bet is to buy GOOD rollers with true pressurized pin oiling-- namely Isky Red Zones and even then yank them out every 7500-10K miles for inspection.

Troy
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Last edited by Blown353; 02-18-2006 at 08:18 PM.
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  #7  
Old 02-21-2006, 11:16 PM
Y-TRY Y-TRY is offline
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I have an unused Comp Cams rev-kit sitting here that I'll sell to you for $50.
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