T56 with LS7 clutch?

[LAMBSKIN71]

Hey guys,

I have a 07 6.2 L92 motor, stock, with the G8 intake (L76 i think, dont remember the nomenclature) and a T56 out of a 99 T/A, with stock throw out bering and slave. I am using a LS7 flywheel clutch and pressure plate bought new from a local GM dealership. I am using a stock GM truck starter from a salvage yard which is working fine, the issue is when the peddal is depressed the clutch isnt engaging, you can hear the bearing touch the fingers of the pressure plate but you cant shift through the gears. Now there is a 1/4" spacer between the bell housing and trans case from Mcleod, i followed their instruction and took the measurements from the rear of the bell housing to the pressure plate and then from the front of the trans to the front of throw out berring and theres a 3/8" difference. Now, I talked with Mcleod and they said this set up will not work with a stock clutch slave and throwout berring because of the recessed flywheel and the way the self adjusting LS7 pressure plate work. I also talked with The guys at centerforce and they said that it should work that from the sound of it I just need to put a spacer behind the hydraulic slave. I have a local machine shop that is making one and should be done this week.

Before I waste time and money putting this back in the car can someone tell me if this will or will not work? Im getting two different answers from two reputable sources. This is all going in a 71 Chevelle too.

Can someone shed some light on this for me, in laymans terms?

[Musclerodz]

should work with a correct sized spacer. we are running a ZR1 clutch behind a magnum t56 and I have the info that was given to me to make it work somewhere saved.

[LAMBSKIN71]

Thanks,
The space idea seems the logical solution to me too, do you forsee any issue from moving the slave out on the input shaft 3/8"? And what is the deal with the three fingers on the pressure plate that stick up further than the rest, I get that its self adjusting but I didnt understand how that would affect the way the rest of the parts worked or shouldnt work together, according to Mcleod.

[Nine Ball]

Now there is a 1/4" spacer between the bell housing and trans case from Mcleod

What is this spacer for? Can you remove it?

What is happening is that your slave cylinder doesn't have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. That spacer is likely the cause of it. Since you moved the trans 1/4" backwards, that means the slave now has 1/4" less travel into the clutch. Put another 1/4" spacer behind the slave, where it mounts to the trans, and you should be good to go.

Also, be sure you have an adjustable clutch master cylinder, with a threaded rod. That will also help you fine tune the engagement point of the clutch.

[dhutton]

Just about all you would ever want to know and then some:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...need-shim.html

This has got me wondering now since I used an LS7 clutch and no shim. Should be starting it in a few weeks so I will see how it goes. I might order that shim kit just in case.

Don

[MaxHarvard]

Camaro Performers did a really good write up on how to measure for correct slave cylinder depth. It's the Feb 2012 book... really good article.

[67ragtp]

Originally Posted by Musclerodz

should work with a correct sized spacer. we are running a ZR1 clutch behind a magnum t56 and I have the info that was given to me to make it work somewhere saved.

Mike, Any chance you could share this info, Im curious what kind of TOB gap is necessary for this dual disk setup and if a standard fbody slave will work with it. Does the complete clutch assy move the fingers to close to the trans face requiring a spacer, I think katech uses some kind of bell housing spacer for ls9 setups.

Rich

[GeoffP]

I'll just plan to pre-assemble my engine to the trans so I can check everything prior to putting it in the car. Sounds like it'll be time well spent!

[LAMBSKIN71]

Still waiting on Machine shop to cut the spacer, went back and re measured, looks like .450 is going to be the magic number, for my set up at least. I am still concerned about the three raised fingers on the LS7 pressure plate, not sure how that is going to affect things, I was told to meassure to the rest of the fingers that are about 1/16" lower than the three,

[samckitt]

I'm somewhat curious about this too. I have an LS2 from a Trailblazer SS, and am putting a T56 magnum behind it with LS7 clutch. I bought the bigger/outer bearing for the crank thinking it was more durable because it's bigger. Am I going to have to change it & go with the smaller/inner one? What throw out bearing do I need?

Thakns,
Scot