Building my big ten bolt or why not - Lateral-g Forums

**WSSix** · #1 04-13-2013, 01:29 PM

I'm fairly certain that the 10 bolt in my car will need to be taken apart and redone. Last time I drove the car it was making bad noises. My thoughts have always been to simply keep the rear because it's strong, has plenty of aftermarket support, robs less power, and I won't ever "need" a 9in or 12 bolt power wise. My question is who can build my ten bolt up near me? Near being relative as I'm more than willing to go into OKC, Denver, ABQ, Dallas etc if I have to. Really, I think all I'll need to do is put new axle tubes on the housing, have them aligned, and fully welded. I already have 3.42 gears. Maybe I'll spring for a new posi unit or look to upgrade the stocker if possible.

The other question is why shouldn't I build it or why should I go with a 12bolt or 9in? Car is a street car and will remain that way for a long time to come. I'm looking at a TA suspension most like from Speed Tech or JRS and I'm fairly certain they can both be made to fit the big 10 bolt. Is there anything else I should consider when making this decision?

Thanks!

gerno · #2 04-13-2013, 04:50 PM

I'm about to do a 9" swap in my 2nd gen as well. Power wise I'm not afraid of the ring gears holding up. My fear comes from the C-clips and the axle potentially falling out. I have had to pick up a friend who lost an axle driving down the highway without anything close to crazy power. I could only imagine what may happen if it's on a road course or autocross.

David Pozzi · #3 04-14-2013, 11:50 AM

I'd install some aftermarket axles, The ten factory axles look good. I've had a couple of issues with Superior axles.

**WSSix** · #4 04-14-2013, 12:10 PM

Well, I put Strange axles in it while I was getting everything else in the car a few years ago. I'm going to be upset if they are damaged since they have only a few miles on them. I can't remember if the axles were anything special though. Is there a certain material or treatment I should look at when considering new axles?

Just how common is the c-clip falling out or breaking? Is it over hyped? There are so many axles with that design out there and I personally don't know anyone that has had issues.

Thanks guys.

**Ketzer** · #5 04-14-2013, 12:55 PM

They make a kit to eliminate the C-clips. I think it's pretty common to do to any of the GM rearends if you have hp at all. How big a deal? Lots of stories both ways, guy raced for years and never broke one, guy was on his way to church in a low mileage stocker and shebango! I do know this, the carnage is usually ugly.

My car needs a rearend too but unless I was doing some kind of numbers matching thing (I'm not), I would not invest all the upgrades into a 10bolt. It sounds like you've already spent good money on yours so it makes since to finish it out.

Jeff-

Buick Grand National Guy · #6 06-06-2013, 06:21 PM

The Buick Grand Nationals have 8.5" 10 bolt rear ends and they can take the power! Those V6's at 30 lb boost put our a TON of torque and the rears survive! You could convert it to a full floater if concerned that c-clip will break. I would not spend the $'s until I break something!
Conrad

Ron Sutton · #7 06-07-2013, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSSix

Just how common is the c-clip falling out or breaking? Is it over hyped? There are so many axles with that design out there and I personally don't know anyone that has had issues.

The issue is not about the c-clip falling out or breaking. The issue is ... if the axle breaks ... the results are disastrous. The axle, tire & wheel combo come out of the car ... under load & at speed!

A c-clip eliminator converts your axle bearing to a press on bearing of better quality ... AND ... utilizes a bearing housing end that bolts onto the housing end/backing plate end. Not only is it stronger ... but if for any reason you break an axle ... the axle stays in the rear end.

Not so with factory c-clips ... if it breaks ... the axle, wheel & tire come OUT !

A full set up costs $130-180 ... so it is a VERY SMALL price to pay for a LOT of safety for you & the people around you ... and protection for your car.

Go to page 16 of Strange's catalog:
http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/index.html

Che70velle · #8 06-07-2013, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Sutton

The issue is not about the c-clip falling out or breaking. The issue is ... if the axle breaks ... the results are disastrous. The axle, tire & wheel combo come out of the car ... under load & at speed!

A c-clip eliminator converts your axle bearing to a press on bearing of better quality ... AND ... utilizes a bearing housing end that bolts onto the housing end/backing plate end. Not only is it stronger ... but if for any reason you break an axle ... the axle stays in the rear end.

Not so with factory c-clips ... if it breaks ... the axle, wheel & tire come OUT !

A full set up costs $130-180 ... so it is a VERY SMALL price to pay for a LOT of safety for you & the people around you ... and protection for your car.

Go to page 16 of Strange's catalog:
http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/index.html

Ron, thanks for posting this link. Most kits for GM vehicles require the user to change axles also, which can get expensive. I haven't seen these kits before. Very affordable.

Zspoiler · #9 06-07-2013, 11:43 PM

I would rebuild yours .The reason why GM quit building the 12 bolt is because it is just as strong. My car is a 1979 Z-28 RS Camaro. It has a supercharged small block Chevy with a Super T-10 4 speed. The speedometer has turned over 6 times before I rebuilt the 10 bolt.I upgraded to the Moroso "Brute Strength" carrier for a 10 bolt. It has heavier springs and clutches than stock. Stock GM 3:42 ring and pinion.And Mosier 31 Spline axels. But I tend to over build stuff when upgrade the car .Because of the amount of power the engine is capable of making . So if the is going to be fairly stock. I would rebuild it stock but add a positraction carrier to it. And if want to have a lot healthier engine down the road. I do the upgrades like I did. I like to do things only once. Especially big ticket items like differentials. I all depends on you and your pocket book. Good Luck to you.

**WSSix** · #10 06-08-2013, 04:00 PM

Thanks for all the replies guys. I'll know soon enough if the rear end is making noise and what it is. I'm close to getting it on the road legally.

One thing I have noticed is the rear is weeping gear oil from where the tubes and new axle tube ends where welded on. I had this done by a chassis shop that builds 10.5 Outlaw cars. Is this normal or did they not do the best welding job? Can it be rewelded or do I just need to start over with a different housing?

As for the C-clip eliminators, Marty mentioned something in his build thread about being told the kits aren't for a car that corners. Anyone have any insight into that claim?

I think I'm good for brakes in the rear. I've got C5 rears now and I'd go with a Kore3 kit if the need arises. Marty already figured out how to make that work with the C-clip eliminator kit.