Last try to solve this issue! ( So far 0 for 1000) - Lateral-g Forums

BC69 · #1 08-11-2009, 08:19 AM

Okay, so I am sure if you research my old posts I have brought this up 15 times. But it is still persistent, and a huge headache at times.

Problem: Basically, since the car was completed, it randomly will not start. Pull in to get gas, won't restart. Stop for food, won't restart. It doesn't turn over or anything. Just completely battery dead. Battery gauge while driving (and I check constantly now) is right at 14. But when you go to start, seems to be down to 8, like something is bleeding the battery.

Fix AttemptsFirst time it happened, my shop changed a couple wiring harnesses, even though they had all been brand new. And ultimately believed it was the neutral safety switch on the transmission. But I don't believe that anymore.

Since then, if it happens, generally the car will start after a jump, or if you just let it sit sometimes it will start. Which makes me think it could be heat related. But this has happened 2 minutes into driving or 2 hours. So while I still think it could be heat, how would that drain the battery? I can see heat impacting the starter, but the battery?

The starter and battery are both brand new. Engine is 350 with 3 speed auto. Harnesses are all new. Alternator is a bit older, but has been tested and is fine.

Right now my car is in storage at a mechanic's house, he has tried to get the car to duplicate this non-start issue, but never can. What is funny is he will let it run for a while to heat up, cruise neighborhood and see if it will not start. No luck. I will take the car out, drive 1/2 mile to the gas station, and it will die!

This is seriously frustrating and its been to the shop a few times, but I think to diagnostically figure it out would need some luck, getting the car to do it, or a random electrical system hunt which could cost a bundle.

So once again, I ask for some ideas on what could be causing this? Free beer to anyone who can solve it!

Thanks,
Tim

**camcojb** · #2 08-11-2009, 08:27 AM

sounds like a grounding issue or loose connection to me. Have you ever tested the battery voltage at the battery when this condition occurs? I'm going to guess that the battery voltage is probably not real low, but a poor/missing ground or loose positive or negative connection is what's happening.

I would also rig up a manual bypass for the neutral safety switch just in case to test when it happens again; if the switch is faulty or misadjusted it will not turn over at all. Do the lights work when this happens or is everything dead?

Jody

Vegas69 · #3 08-11-2009, 08:28 AM

Intermittent problems are the hardest to figure out. Carry a multimeter with you so next time it happens you can diagnose the problem. I'm leaning towards a battery cable or battery cable connections. That could also include a problem inside the starter solenoid housing. You can perform a voltage drop test on both your battery cables by placing the leads on both end of the positive cable.(Battery side and starter side) and your negative by battery side and say the cylinder block or frame. You should see say .1 or .2 volts max. When it happens, I would like to see you check the votage at the battery itself. If you have 12.8 volts or 13 or whatever and your volt gauge reads 8, you know you have a cable issue, intenral starter issue, and quite possibly a ignition switch issue depending on where your volt gauge is wired into the system.

BC69 · #4 08-11-2009, 08:48 AM

Good suggestions on the battery. Haven't tested the voltage at the battery itself when this happened.

Lights and radios are working, just not enough power for it to turn over. Battery cables are new too.

I have had issues with the gauges before, replaced the tach and the speedo works when it feels like it.

GM Muscle · #5 08-11-2009, 09:38 AM

bad ground.

**DOOM** · #6 08-11-2009, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camcojb

sounds like a grounding issue or loose connection to me. Have you ever tested the battery voltage at the battery when this condition occurs? I'm going to guess that the battery voltage is probably not real low, but a poor/missing ground or loose positive or negative connection is what's happening.

I would also rig up a manual bypass for the neutral safety switch just in case to test when it happens again; if the switch is faulty or misadjusted it will not turn over at all. Do the lights work when this happens or is everything dead?

Jody

I think Jody is on to something here . I just had a car in my shop with the same problem. I just put a battery in the car about 4 months earlier. The car would be fine , then all of a sudden it would'nt start. It would jump right off with the jump pack . But I never thought of the battery because I just put it in.Spent countless weeks with this problem. After I really sat down and went through all I did and checked. I did what Jody is telling you and it turned out the new battery was junk .. (DELCO) just must of gotten a bad one... All is good now.

AJSZR2326 · #7 08-11-2009, 10:37 AM

sounds like something is loose, when you try to duplicate the problem have you tried jamming on the brakes, taking hot corners or accelerating? could be battery( take one out of neighbors car and try) you know its electrical so there's a start. you only need a battery ,solonoid and starter to make a car turn over, electrically speaking.whats the status of the starter?

BC69 · #8 08-11-2009, 11:10 AM

The thing is, that when this started, I replaced the battery. And the one that was taken out was tested and actually OK. Just replaced it to be certain. So it has done this same thing with two batteries. The starter is also new, has maybe 1000 miles on it now. Cables have 4k miles on them. Might replace the cables though now....

monza · #9 08-11-2009, 12:02 PM

I had exactly the same problems you are describing , drove me nuts!

Finally traced it down to the fuse box and the connection between the firewall side and the dash side specifically the ignition wire connection in the fuse box. At some point this connection became loose and looked like it was electrical arching between the two sides causing the plastic to become brittle and loosing a solid connection... I assumed continually getting worse and worse.
I bypassed the fuse box with that particular wire and it was fixed.

The actual cause was created by the bolt that connects the firewall side and interior side of the fuse box, at some point it looks like it was connected cross threaded, or a bad thread from day one? It seemed tight but it was not, it was cross threaded and could not tighten anymore (the T-nut embedded in the plastic was spinning) although from all indications it was tight.

Might be something to look at hopefully it helps??? Next time it happens go giggle the fuse box.... and try and start it, or have someone giggle the fuse box while you start it?

jcal87 · #10 08-11-2009, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GM Muscle

bad ground.

x2 sounds like it needs to be checked