ls1 rod bolts

[GM Muscle]

i swapped them and it was very simple. i just held the motor with a cherry picker and put jackstands under the mounts. no issues.. thanks guys

[1970camaroRS]

Originally Posted by GM Muscle

i swapped them and it was very simple. i just held the motor with a cherry picker and put jackstands under the mounts. no issues.. thanks guys

No problem!

[Bow Tie 67]

I have an 08 L92, is it true the factory rod bolts were upgraded and less susceptable to breaking? Would changing the bolts still be recommended?

[69MyWay]

I would suggest leaving them alone "if" you know the motor was healthy when pulled.

For the power level you are after, they will be fine in stock form.

Removing them, resizing...etc, etc, will throw some money after something that isn't broken - imho.

Then...if you do break them, you get a great excuse to put the stroker crank in there!

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by 69MyWay

I would suggest leaving them alone "if" you know the motor was healthy when pulled.

For the power level you are after, they will be fine in stock form.

Removing them, resizing...etc, etc, will throw some money after something that isn't broken - imho.

Then...if you do break them, you get a great excuse to put the stroker crank in there!

the LS rod bolts do not require re-sizing of the rods, so they're pretty cheap and easy to do. With that said, I did them on my LQ9 because I plan on making over 500 hp and felt it was cheap insurance.

Jody

[Bow Tie 67]

So I pulled the pan today and spoke with ARP. They said there is no way of telling if replacing them would throw the rod end out of round. ( cracked cap rods are not resized ) I have the bolts, but I'm vacillating on if I should proceed. The engine is an 08 6.2 with SPS 12.9 bolts from the factory. I read somewhere that GM had upgraded the rod bolts sometime in the last few years. I have 5k on the engine and she put down 420 at the rear wheels, I do plan on making more power in the future.

Opinions?

What level of power is safe with a stock short block?

Edit:

Here is what I found, stock 12.9 bolts have an equivalent strength of 156,600 yield & 174,000 Tensile.

Arp 234-6301 bolts are 180,000 yield & 215 - 220 Tensile.

Increased rpm redline is the main cause of rod bolt failure.

I have decided to go ahead and replace the bolts. I will be using a stretch gauge, ( most accurate method ), and only loosen one bolt at a time.

[69MyWay]

I think either way you are okay. The reason I mentioned what I did, is there are many companies building super chargers, turbo chargers...and other head/cam packages that push LS power way up, and none of them "REQUIRE" a rod bolt swap.

We are working on a 700 rwhp single turbo 1999 Trans Am right now that has been flogged by the owner and is still sitting on the stock bottom end that has 140K miles.

If I had the engine out in parts and was assembling it...this is a no-brainer question. However...I too would be hesitant to disturb the apple cart if there isn't currently a problem knowing that there are plenty of motors putting down tons of power that have full stock bottom ends.

[Bow Tie 67]

I wish I spent less time reading. Had I never read anything about the rod bolts, I would be fat, dumb and happy.

[70rs]

It is my understanding that the early LS1s were the problematic rod bolt engines. I have read and been told that anything after 2000 is upgraded from the factory and that ALL of the 6.0 and 6.2 LS engines are not a problem in regards to the rod bolt failures. However, any time an engine is pushing much over the stock horse power levels they should be replaced. So for the 08 L92 6.2 the stock bolts are fine if the engine will not be spun to the moon and the power level is kept reasonable.

But as stated above. They are cheap insurance any time the engine is apart.