TIG welding sheetmetal

[out2kayak]

Just curious how folks setup your TIG machines for welding sheet metal.

Do you still follow the 1 amp / .001" rule of thumb?

I've been playing in the 80 amp range for 16 gauge with 15 CFH and a 3/32 2% lanthanated tungsten.

I've been reading at http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6292 a "no hammer method" of welding sheet metal that I'm going to try, but wanted to hear what others are doing.

Thoughts?

[The WidowMaker]

im interested as well.

for the 16ga 304 exhaust that i just did, i was running 65-70a with the pulse set to 2ppm 75/25 and i was getting good penetration with a back purge. used an 1/8th 2% lan and 18cfh.

im still new and suck at keeping my hands moving and adding filler for other style joints. i have a dynasty 200dx and bought the hand controls. it only sucks because my hand is positioned so far down the torch. it makes it really hard to keep it stable. foot controls would make it easier in some aspects, but i really liked being able to tack under the car without the lift arc.

[ccracin]

I'll make it a third for this discussion. Bring on the info people!

[Fluid Power]

I wish I knew as well. I read a lot of stuff on here:

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

Darren

[ironworks]

I say BS on the no hammer method. I takes very little heat to warp a panel. 48" at 2.5 minutes is 3 seconds. If you have ever TIG welded that is a pretty fast feed rate. The most important part of welding sheetmetal is cooling your panel. The more heat you put in the panel the more you have to fix. Plus how many sheetmetal panels on a car are 16 gauge? Most are 18-20 gauge. 18 gauge is .045 and 16 Gauge is .065. I doubt you could fully penetrate and .065 panel with a fusion weld that was not thin.

I got it maybe this weld was done under water. There we go, under water TIG welding will help control distortion.

[ccracin]

Originally Posted by ironworks

I got it maybe this weld was done under water. There we go, under water TIG welding will help control distortion.

I'm sorry I asked! Job security ha Rog!

[ironworks]

Man I wish it was that easy and I'm down to be proven wrong. But I know too many talented sheetmetal guys that do it differently and it takes alot longer then what he says. I would want to see it in person. Before I would even waste my time to try what he is saying.

[GregWeld]

I see several things wrong with this guys story.... especially the speed part. Not to mention not wearing gloves... that's not even smart. And I'd catch the paper towel on fire in the first tack. Why expose your hands to the UV...

I've TIG'd a fair amount of sheet metal.... and I find that if I tack - skip - tack - skip - tack - hammer the gap/warp flat around each tack before I continue - and COOL the metal as I go... The key for me is minimal heat - tack quickly - patience - cooling - tapping the gap gets the job done.

Warpage - in all welding materials and types - is all about heat control... and that is FAR harder to learn than "melting metal and adding filler"...

Doing stainless sheet -- with PERFECT fit up -- you can tack with a quick stab of the foot control - no filler... just a very quick "zap" and you're done... and even that will pull the gap off... so you have to tap that gap back before you move on.

I only use a foot control -- I put the finger control away and have never gotten it out since. I have to steady/rest my torch hand and filler hand --- or fugedidaboudit.


See any warpage in this tank I made?

[Teetoe_Jones]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

See any warpage in this tank I made?

Is the tank behind those two mirrors?

Nice work man!

Tyler

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Teetoe_Jones

Is the tank behind those two mirrors?

Nice work man!

Tyler

Yes it is!! You're good man!!

I'm the short fat one with the camera... I made this MIRROR POLISHED SS fuel tank for my buddy. The one with the big smile.