Just an update 'cause I know you're all just dying to hear what's up with the car.
This morning I got up and decided to put the manometer on the stacks - since I know they worked hard on the idling. They were WAY out of whack... so I balanced those up and the motor smoothed out considerably. So that was a super easy fix - provided you actually own a manometer!
If you're playing with 8 stacks this is no less important than owing a timing light or a screwdriver.
Leaned out the idle AF ratio to 13:8 -- idle got crisper note and was steadier
I already reported that with ONE adjustment - the parking brake issue was resolved (so far). Prior to that adjustment - if you turned left - you'd swear you were driving with an exploded posi unit. Just terrible noises! So after studying the set up a bit - I made an adjustment - then went out and drove the car down a hill while using the handbrake a bit - on and off -- drag the car down and release gain some speed and hit it again. This is NOT an emergency brake -- but could be used as one. It's a simple parking brake but the little bitty pads are brand new and they needed to be bedded in and scrub off some of the nubs and newness.... after that they have not made a single peep.
Now -- let's have a simple class....
A PCV is what class?
That's right -- it's a controlled vacuum leak.
How many of you would "T" into a controlled vacuum leak to get vacuum for the MAP sensor or the Fuel Pressure Regulator?
GOOD CLASS! You're way ahead of these guys! 'Cause they T'd into the PCV line in order to pull vacuum on something that wants a solid steady signal!
Okay class now that you're on a roll --
If you wanted to get a car to idle down would you?
A) Advance the timing
B) Retard the timing
That's right... "B" you would RETARD the timing
If you retarded the timing - even just 2 degrees - would you then have to adjust the idle settings in order to achieve the desired idle RPMS?
YES! You're right again! Man you guys are good!
But here's the trick question....
If you mess with idle settings on EFI -- do you?
A) Reset the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) settings in the ECU
B) You have no clue so do nothing and expect the ECU to understand the
new voltage readings it's getting so it no longer knows it's at idle (closed throttle)
So it's the little DETAILS but you first have to have a CLUE and if you don't have a clue - pick up the phone and ask someone that does... but then that would be embarrassing to admit you're clueless so it's better to just screw it up and let the customer do it correctly.