My plan is to prime the frame with epoxy primer after cleaning to bare metal then spray with the Eastwood 2k Ceramic Chassis Black. I am going to use gloss black. All components like rear axle and suspension arms, a-arms, spindles, steering components, tranny cross member etc. are getting powder coated.
For other, I was thinking some sort of plating (chrome, nickle, etc.),
Ohhhh, okay. I didn't think of that. Totally blew my mind. I had tunnel vision, because not many muscle car guys chrome their frames. I would think more of low riders doing that kind of stuff.
Actually I agree with you. I like/love powder and your right most people don't need the Show Car look. I am going to powder most everything that I can on my car. The goal is to take it out and beat the crud out of it and Powder can withstand the abuse.
A good friend Powder a Mountain Bike Frame almost 15 years ago and I've beat the crap out of it and there isn't a chip on it. Plenty of dents - no chips.
I don't know... I've seen too many Harley frames that, after a few years of abuse, are peeling due to rust migration that started from a simple chip. Of course, everything under my car is semi-flat black or undercoat, but I really like a good paint as it can always be sanded and repainted wherever it needs it. Plus, if I make a modification, I don't have to worry about the heat, I just scuff and paint.
Shiny Side Up!
Bill
__________________ You ever wonder what medieval cook looked at the guts of a pig and thought, "I bet if you washed out that poop tube, you could stuff it with meat and eat it."
Not sure if it has been mentioned, when we did our '55 chassis, the powdercoating shop did a base coat in zinc and a color topcoat. Both were powders. So, if it does chip, the zinc will offer rust protection. Pretty cool and something to think about for the powdercoat votes.
Quick note on powder coat as you prepping the frame or whatever parts.
I like and used powder on frames. Good sand blast to give the metal some "tooth" and it sicks like crazy.
Allot of cracks in powder coat start from a sharp edge. Powder doesn't adhere well over sharp corner like a frame or suspension mount. If you can slightly rounnd edges and the powder will take a hit better and not crack.
Another thing is layers of powder. The more layers you have the better the chances of attachment bolts will crack the powder coat they are tighten. Split lockers washers are tough on powder coat.
The company I work for has a powder coat shop and does zinc, nickel and anodizing. Nickel is very durable. I've used it allot on things like hood hinges,
headers, and latchs. Nickel "wears" better if parts rub on each other.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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