C6 Weld-On Flange Ends

[MillerBuilt]

Originally Posted by efs69

Jay,

I'll trade you for my flanged rear....lol

Looks killer!

Efrain

Thanks Efrain, I am a serious fan of parts porn and find myself spending lots of time just looking at it!
If you currently have a Big Ford "Torino End" on your current housing, I will soon have a bolt on option for you. But shhhhhh, don't tell anyone....

[4mul8ion]

Originally Posted by JSM

Thanks Efrain, I am a serious fan of parts porn and find myself spending lots of time just looking at it!
If you currently have a Big Ford "Torino End" on your current housing, I will soon have a bolt on option for you. But shhhhhh, don't tell anyone....

Uh oh. This sounds like trouble for me.


Not sure if I'm going be be able to resist the urge to upgrade.

Kevin

[MoparCar]

Originally Posted by JSM

Great question!

The preferred/recommended method would be to first weld on ALL suspension brackets COMPLETELY. TIG being the preferred method but certainly not required.
If patience is practiced during welding (taking time between brackets, and allowing brief cooling periods), you will see VERY little movement of the axle tubes. The minimal axle tube movement you may experience will not effect the axle centerline at all once you install the weld-on flange ends with my/your jig set-up which puts the Ends/Hubs/Axles at perfect centerline with the carrier despite where the actual axle tube is. Although the flange may be slightly "offset" on the axle tube end, that is irrelevant and will not effect anything.
Now, with that said, IF the tubes pulled one way or the other for whatever the reason (or the housing came that way before getting started), you can straighten the tubes by applying a approx. 2" weld on the side you want to "pull up". This you will find will slowly pull the axle tube in the direction you are wanting it to go (of course after you have gotten the results you wanted you will need to grind/sand the weld smooth).
In extreme cases, you may have to quench the 2" weld with water that usually yields twice the results due to the instant cooling effect that springs the metal back at the applied weld.
I have only seen a few housings that required this treatment, and still was not really needed due to the fixturing process that installs the weld-on flange at perfect axle centerline. This mainly applies to a traditional style floater install that utilizes spindle "snouts" that actually install into the axle tubes, as apposed to a big ford end or like mine that simply butt weld to the axle tube end.
Hope all this makes sense.

Jay

Thanks for the info Jay.
Wes

[baddrides]

They look sweet Jay, top quality as expected......

[MillerBuilt]

Originally Posted by 4mul8ion

Uh oh. This sounds like trouble for me.


Not sure if I'm going be be able to resist the urge to upgrade.

Kevin

This is going to be one very slick piece IMO. I have been working out all the MANY little details and am now ready to go! I wanted to be able to make this a true bolt on that requires NO fabrication, it will benefit EVERYONE that has an existing rear-end that currently has Big Ford "New Style/Torino" ends, and that would like to convert to this C6/7 set-up...
Based on your/others current 2.50" axle offset (most common) on your existing housing, this new C6/7 "bolt-on" set-up will add 1/4" to each sides wheel mounting surface due to design constraints while working around the Big Ford End/C6/7 assembly dimensions....

Many folks will be able to run their existing calipers & rotors too with the addition of new caliper brackets & rotor hats from the manufacturer of the caliper & rotor, so long as they offer your caliper/rotor in a C5/6 application (I know this gets confusing a bit, but I will assist you with all this if you are heading this direction).....

Originally Posted by MoparCar

Thanks for the info Jay.
Wes

You're welcome Wes!

Originally Posted by baddrides

They look sweet Jay, top quality as expected......

They gotta be,,,,, got guys like you watching

[aany001]

Wow just stumbled across this thread wow!!! Really slick set up.

[RoadRace Elco]

i currently have a 12 bolt in my 66 elco, with wilwood 6 piston calipers, fixed. i do have pad knock back .

what do i need to do to make this kit work and do you have a complete kit for my application?

thanks

[MillerBuilt]

Originally Posted by aany001

Wow just stumbled across this thread wow!!! Really slick set up.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by RoadRace Elco

i currently have a 12 bolt in my 66 elco, with wilwood 6 piston calipers, fixed. i do have pad knock back .

what do i need to do to make this kit work and do you have a complete kit for my application?

thanks

What flange ends do you run on your 12 bolt?

[airpanaia]

Hi all,
I just ordered a set of these from Jay today and I am in the Akron ohio area. So if anyone is interested in seeing these in person or wants to follow me when i build me axel, just let me know.

i have been reading these fourms for years but just joined a few weeks ago to be able to message you guys to get some parts.

Dan
65 Skylark
63 Buick Riviera

[RoadRace Elco]

Originally Posted by JSM

Thanks!



What flange ends do you run on your 12 bolt?

The factory flanges 4 but top are narrow bottom wider