I have my Optima battery mounted in the trunk of my 69 Firebird LS3 track/street car with the battery cable running up the center of the inside of the car to a master on/off switch mounted in the dash, then to a firewall pass-through terminal, and then on to the starter. I have a on/off positive terminal end mounted to the battery. I just saw in another build thread that a guy used a 200amp manual breaker mounted about 18" from the battery. It seems like this would be a good way to protect against any shorts in my long battery cable. Thoughts from the electrical gurus?
I have my Optima battery mounted in the trunk of my 69 Firebird LS3 track/street car with the battery cable running up the center of the inside of the car to a master on/off switch mounted in the dash, then to a firewall pass-through terminal, and then on to the starter. I have a on/off positive terminal end mounted to the battery. I just saw in another build thread that a guy used a 200amp manual breaker mounted about 18" from the battery. It seems like this would be a good way to protect against any shorts in my long battery cable. Thoughts from the electrical gurus?
Someone said in another thread that the circuit can actually weld together in a short situation? Maybe a fuse is more fail safe...especaily at the track?
On my setup I use a ford starter solenoid mounted to the battery hold down. The big battery cable is only hot when cranking. Separate from that is an 8 gauge cable to a power distribution block on the firewall by the fuse panel that powers all accessories and has a 50 amp fuse at the battery.
Greg would this be the one you would recommend? After thinking about it i think having one would be a great idea. Plus this is easier than unhooking the battery for repairs.
Is there something out there that would still allow some power to maintain the vintage air settings and not reset my ecu?