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  #61  
Old 07-19-2025, 05:46 AM
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Yep, Once again I am blown away by this thread and I can't wait to see more posts.
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Is a car ever really done???? It's like a ball of yarn unwinding, that has no end... Author DKz Garage

Projects - Syborg TT 4.3l v6 Mini-Truck, 2nd Chance Camaro & SLP575 Bumble Bee - 4Sale
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  #62  
Old 07-25-2025, 10:49 AM
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Thx, Marty.

Exhaust collectors, 5 to 1. Sure you can buy them, for me buying them from US and shipping here, after all the cost (shipping & taxes) they cost 1200€ (almost $1500/each) For that money I could just buy billet ones from Elmer Racing Shop here in Finland. They make worlds best billet collectors.
(elmerracing.com) non pay'd add.

so, you guested right, I gonna make my own:

First little calculations, as every good project starts with. Stainless steel, Slip fit 2" primaries,with 30 degree bends and 3.5" collectors
(We Finns have a saying that every project that has been properly planned thought is just starting away from been finish.) Well begun is half done

Then tested my calculations with cardboard (CAD=Cardboard Aided Design). Will the cutting ends meet at the middle and will the diameter fit for v-band.

Then designed cutting tool for my band saw, 3d printed from normal PLA-plastic. Also printed an clocking tool, how much I need to turn the pipe between cuts.
After all where cut, run them with polishing wheel, just make them look little nicer, specially at inner sides, I can polish them good on outside after welding. Not so much from the inside, center of the collector.

Then took 10mm - 3/8" steel plate and cut pieces of 2" exhaust tubing, mig welded them to calculated positions to use as welding fixture. Holes at the plate are for inside purge Argon gas. Tig welded them together, Added the v-band, off the fixture.

As you can see at the alst picture, they did deform on me doing the welding, they gather together little bit but I can live with that. Every primeries will have a press formed sleeve over it at the joint to collector, that way my lambda sensors don't get any fresh air between primeries and collectors.

What am I building next...
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Last edited by SuperB70; 07-31-2025 at 12:45 AM.
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  #63  
Old 07-25-2025, 06:01 PM
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You've got too much time on your hands. Nice work!
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  #64  
Old 07-26-2025, 04:19 PM
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Nice work Juhani!
Been dreaming up some 3D printed stuff as well.
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  #65  
Old 07-27-2025, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarhead View Post
Nice work Juhani!
Been dreaming up some 3D printed stuff as well.
Thx Joe,

Printer is just one more tool. Mine is old but builded and has print area of 20" square, got scanner and blue diode table laser also. They will be used in this build...
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  #66  
Old 07-27-2025, 05:08 PM
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Nice fab work!
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  #67  
Old 07-29-2025, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89 RS View Post
Nice fab work!
Thx Corey.

Results of 30 years of want to learn and be better. Continues everyday.

As my (now past) friend Gene sad: Everyday is a school day.
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  #68  
Old 07-29-2025, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camcojb View Post
You've got too much time on your hands. Nice work!
No Jody,

Im just poor blue collar guy and born to country where you make you stuff yourself..

This is my interpretation of been build and not bought LoL
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  #69  
Old 08-01-2025, 10:32 AM
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Lets continue. Even it looks like I don't get conversation going here.. go figure..

Last I showed how I made my collectors, is't time to build stainless headers.

Idea was to design those build blocks ( again, buying set and importing it here is way too expensive) But I found file from Grabcad that was right radius for me. So I started printing those out of PLA, no need any exotic material here. To make one set of shorties.

Next I draw and printed fixture to cut tubes in my band saw. Glued pieces of bicycle inner tube in it. Now it clamps much tighter.

I draw up a flance of ex side of the cylinder head. Made it so that every primeries has own, not all bridged together.

Made program to our vertical mill with Heidenhain.
Side note: If here are any machinist, if you look that picture, do you catch the great idea there?
I'll point it out: Table has upright 90 degree bench on it. There is "waste"plate bolted to that bench. Now you can mill that straight, or make a needed groove, an edge, or like me here, welded piece of axle and mill that to fixture for the flances. I can mill 1mm deeper and dont have to worry about hitting the expensive and hard bench. After I'm done, just cut the piece off and mill the surface flat again. You can see the groove there at the bottom, I used it to get my supercharger intake flance bolted vertical to it when I milled it to square and flat.

First I milled aluminium ones, with M6 threaded hole, to bolt first build block on them. Then chanced material to 10mm stainless and made real flances, with little recess around the port hole. For the tube to sunk, much better to weld.

Bolted aluminium ones to cylinder head and started to build primeries. So of my printed block broke right away or where loose so I secured the rotation with electric tape. What ever works/goes
Sorry about low quality picture, had to dig it out of old garage camera.

When all "tubes" where made, made sure that all had space to grow, connected to collector (witch was hold in its place with small made fixture witch was bolded to frame tube with coulpe hose clamps.) was time start transfer shapes to stainless. Cut and tack, 3 tacks to every joint.

I am as always critical about my welds (could be better), header came out "ok". I have stainless weld seam cleaning machine, all welds will be cleaned. Color is actually bad. My dry sump pump fit under it ( maybe, mounting system is still ongoing prosess in my head.

Then it was time to test fit the sleeves that I made with shop press. When using slide fit collectors those are good to use, reduse air leaking witch lambda don't like. Smaller end slide over the tube, it will be welded and bigger end goes over collector. Then little eyelets for spring to hold everything together.

Then I did the driver side, wanted them to look alike, even its not 100% possible for many reasons. One thing left to do is weld bungs for K-sensor (exhaust gas temperature) to every primeries. With that, again I run it to no space needed situation. Have room underside but tip of the sensor should be at main flow of the exhaust and that is on top of the tube, gases comes out on top of the exhaust port.. Really dont want to expose so much of the sensor. Would lead to premature sensor failure. Have to think solution..

Been thinking about stainless/ceramic wrap (dont like the look)or spray/powder ceramic coating on them. They will color up nicelly but heat control in mind.

Who's gonna guess what im going to show next?
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Last edited by SuperB70; 08-03-2025 at 02:22 AM.
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  #70  
Old 08-08-2025, 06:28 AM
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Next thing is trans rear mount and tunnel.

First made tube that was used to bold middle plate to chassic, then thought I should do trans rear mount. Easier put in now than later. Draw design up, made toolpagths and wipped it out of block of aluminium.

Trans tunnel: wanted to make it as strong as I can. Pushing over 2000Nm ~1500ftlbs tq through automatic (any) transmission, better get ready for anything.
I used packing tape to get my hands on actual pattern. That way I could measure radius and all needed to turn this in to CAD. Made model with Fusion360, send it to work and continued w/ Solidworks. Turn it to .dxf. Tranfer file to cnc-plasma talbe, cut pieces out of 6mm (1/4") steel. Next walked to cnc-brake, insert program and bended piece to form. Worked pretty good at first time.

Grinded large reliefs and tig welded allaround. Short (2") seams here and there to keep heat build up away.
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Last edited by SuperB70; 08-08-2025 at 01:05 PM.
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