Daily Driver Roll Cages?

[tyoneal]

Originally Posted by streetfytr68

Correct placement for the shoulder harness bar is just below shoulder height. The "T-top" bar is an unnecessary addition to the main hoop and halo, in my opinion. A bit reduntant unless it is placed at a diagonal. The cage decision is very subjective. I can see both sides of the argument. If you favor a cage, but have concerns, the best route is to find a fabricator who will patiently custom bend each bar for maximum driver/passenger clearance and eliminate the back seat. Some money can be saved by starting with an off-the-shelf kit and then add/remove/modify bars on an individual basis.

-Don't place the A-Pillar bars behind the dash--go through the top of the dash.
-Don't put a knee bar in a street car. If a tie bar for the A-pillar bars is a must, put it far under the dash near the firewall/cowl.
-Don't have the cage built until any and all interior components are present during mock-up. (Seats, belts, AC, door panels, mirror, etc.) If you will be doing underhood down bars, then all interference components must be present as well (i.e. hood hinges, wheelhouses, master cylinder/booster, etc.)
-Don't forget to bring a list of other small fabrication tasks such as a battery mount, fuel cell mount or other simple brackets.
-Don't forget to leave clearance to facilitate working on the interior. That cage will be in the way. For example, I have door sill bars that connect the A-pillar bars to the main hoop. The door sill bars interfere with seat hardware installation and removal. If the bars were just 1/2" higher, I wouldn't have this problem. Since I take my car apart every winter, I must fight this little boo boo twice per year. The ensuing tantrum is fun to watch.

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Steve, your insight is much appreciated.

I try to plan in advance as much as possible and these tips will give me a great place to start.

Thanks again.

Ty

BTW: I'll have a couple of replacement MO's in the mail to you before to long.