Introducing Project Sabre, 1971 Cutlass S Pro-Touring car

[SparkyRnD]

The body does look great, but in all honesty there is a ton of work that was in it before it got to the epoxy stage. And, there is going to be about 3-4 weeks of 8 hours a day in the body work (and that is before paint), and that still won't be a perfect show car job (for those that are wondering). When cutting and welding metal, it can still tweak even a little which requires body work on the tail end. And, even though the car was described as all original, never been wrecked, we've found a few places where there were some hidden minor dents, which of course, take extra body work. But, the car was still the best of the bunch after months of searching, and was a great price for what i got.

The good part is that the car is in the best hands I could imagine have working on a car. Joe's body guy is one of the best in the business, and has an amazing eye for detail. He looks for the things I would never think to look for or ask about. I feel lucky to have the car in such capable hands.

Chassis: due to a few scheduling conflicts, we've had to reschedule bringing the chassis to the coaters. Hopefully, we can drop it off later in the week.

I spoke with Jason Rushforth about the wheels, and he thinks they'll be done in the next week and a half to two weeks. The tires are in, and are waiting at the shop to be mounted once the wheels arrive.

I also received the gauge package and new ABS overlay for the cluster from New Vintage, and HOLY COW they look cool! We are using a 6-gauge cluster, with tach and speedo in the center, and then oil / batt / volts / gas split on each side. In the dead center, we had them set us up with one of their killer indicator panels, that has turn signals on either end, and warning lights for check-engine, overheating, low oil, and brights. I'll get pictures up in the next day or so. The best part is that you don't have to hack up your dash to install them. You simply take the original plastic cluster housing out (unbolts from the dash), remove the factory gauges, and use a dremel to trim the original so that the new overlay will fit. Then use epoxy to secure it in place. Takes all of about 30 minutes from start to finish (plus wiring, but that is beside the point).