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02-07-2008, 06:56 PM
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So was my thinking correct?
Ok, I'm confused now. Is Troy saying that having it near the TB is really great...but it should go between the SC and IC to help lower heat build of the IC?
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Tony
'68 Camaro
Last edited by awr68; 02-07-2008 at 07:03 PM.
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02-07-2008, 07:22 PM
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Prior to the TB is the ideal location from a flow/pressure standpoint as you dump all the pressure at the point of restriction (throttle body)... but putting it before the IC in a centrifugally supercharged application is ideal for minimizing heat load through the intercooler in off-boost conditions.
For a centrifugally blown car I would place it prior to the intercooler to minimize the cruising heat load-- that's more important to me. It still works just fine there. That's where I put mine when I added the intercooler.
For the water/air car I helped setup & tune the shop first put the bypass before the TB; I had them move it to before the IC. Moving the bypass made a ~15F difference in the intercooler water tank temperature during a steady freeway cruise as the intercooler was no longer having to cool all the bypassed air with the bypass before the intercooler.
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1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, Vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.
Last edited by Blown353; 02-07-2008 at 07:24 PM.
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02-07-2008, 09:37 PM
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Thanks Troy...I understand now!!!
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Tony
'68 Camaro
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02-07-2008, 10:00 PM
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Thanks for clearing that up Troy. I just kind of assumed 69Bird has a centrifugal blower, didn't think to ask.
Maybe, while we're on the topic of bypass valves, Troy can answer a question of mine.
I'm running the basic Pro-Flow that ProCharger sent to me (the back plastic one with a small filter mounted over the butterfly) and was wondering if other bypass options would work alright with my kit. I know ProCharger also sells the large red one and Paxton sells one similar to it. Is there any benefit to running a larger bypass at only 9psi or do they not become a necessity until I up the boost to 12-14psi or more?
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02-08-2008, 07:00 AM
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Kris, depends on the CFM being moved, boost level, and volume that needs to be "dumped" when you close the throttle. The smaller valves can't move as much volume as quickly as a larger valve and you might get compressor surge. Also the poppet-type valves tend to react faster than the butterfly style valves.
Rev the car really high and snap the throttle shut... or take it up to redline in a gear then leave it in gear and just take your foot off the throttle. If you don't get a chattering sound (usually sounds like "cha-cha-cha-cha-cha") then you aren't getting compressor surge and don't need a bigger (or faster acting) bypass.
The smaller black plastic Bosch bypass valves work well for lower volume / lower boost applications. A single Pro-Flo valve seems to work well up until around the 700-750hp level (around 1250 cfm or so) and then you either need to run two of them or step up to a larger poppet style valve.
The poppet style valves (i.e. red Procharger "Race", Vortech Mondo) are fast responding and move a large volume of air... that's good. Unfortunately they are also really loud. On the air/water car I did it used an F1R headunit and a Procharger open-style Race valve... in the car all you really hear is the damn air coming out of the bypass valve. It's really loud and very obnoxious. Probably would have been better off using the hose-connection style Race bypass and running it to a large breather or something similar to help muffle the noise.
I run two of the Procharger "Pro-Flo" valves on my car. I used to run one and it worked fine with my older P1SCH and non-intercooled. Once I changed to a D1SC I started getting very light compressor surge above 5300rpm or so. Then once I added the intercooler it got real bad... the single valve just couldn't dump all the pressurized air fast enough during shifts and when I'd let off at high-RPM it started to get pretty severe compressor surge. The intercooler & added piping meant a much larger volume of air needed to be dumped at every throttle closing so the system needed a larger "vent" to prevent compressor surge. So I added a 2nd Pro Flo bypass. It was cheaper than buying a Procharger Race bypass (or a Vortech Mondo) and 2 of the Pro-Flo's are fairly quiet. A Procharger "Race" bypass is LOUD. No more surge issues.
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1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, Vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.
Last edited by Blown353; 02-08-2008 at 07:03 AM.
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02-08-2008, 05:43 PM
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Ok one last question. I'm thinking about running the discharge of the bypass valve into the intake of the s.c. it was pretty loud before. In this case i'm thinking its going to be better to mount the bypass valve after the i.c.?
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02-08-2008, 10:57 PM
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You can recirculate it without issue. Besides quieting things down a bit it keeps the air filter cleaner longer.
I would still put the bypass before the intercooler to keep the heat load off it.
__________________
1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, Vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.
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