Project "Payback"

[Vegas69]

I try and post as much info as possible to help others figure out issues with there builds. I know I have used the search function and saved myself some headaches. Wayne, there are two measurments on the starter. The first is flywheel to pinion nose clearance. You need to take the nose off the starter and place a shim and new thicker gasket to get it within spec. You also have a starter pinion tooth to flywheel tooth clearance which you check with a pin style feeler gauge. Mine is within spec. I hope not to mess with shims after it's assembled. I used the bike jack to help steady the engine while I was turning it over for the run out readings. I may just be giving you a call AJ. The engine will be going in no later than next weekend.

I did get the pilot bearing issue solved today. I used a center punch and made three indentations every approx 1/8 inch. It actually raises the metal slightly around the indentation. I then coated the inside of the crank snout with red loctite. The pilot bearing went in with plenty of resistance and the loctite was better safe than sorry. I remeasured the bellhousing and found the lowest and highest spot. It is .010 out of spec. I have .014 offset dowels on the way to get my quick time scattershield centered. Part of the issue is that my engine was line bored even though it was a brank new GM block. The offset dowels should get it where it needs to be. Jim and Todd over at Classic Chevy 5 speed are great guys. Highly recommend them. I still need to get my crossmember modified to a two piece design. It will not go in due to the lower body mounts.

[skatinjay27]

just drive down to tylers shop... im sure he has them in stock and his are some pretty trick looking crossmembers...

[waynieZ]

Thank you
Wayne

[Vegas69]

Already talked to Tyler. His are made for the T56. I am running a tko600. I thought about using his ends but they are out of stock. Probably going to have Tyler mod my current one of fabricate me a new one.

[Denvervet]

How much lower are your body mounts than stock requiring you to modify your Xmember? I will be doing the same drill and trying to anticipate obstacles. I am using GW solid mounts but considering shaving one of mine down due to my frame being about 3/8 " off ( vertically) on one side.

[Vegas69]

I have the half height DSE mounts. I don't know exactly how far it drops it. Would have to measure a stock mount. You could also call DSE. I bet it's around 3/8 to 1/2 inch.

[awr68]

Todd it's looking killer!

The lower DSE mounts are .5" lower than stock and yes they add to the fun! I had to raise the tranny tunnel .75" to clear my T56. I also noticed that a one piece trans x-member doesn't work with them either...good thing I have one of Tyler's 3-piece x-members!

I wouldn't use the lower body mounts again as it's not worth the issues they cause. I had to cut a perfectly good trans tunnel to fit the T56...not what I had in mind when I was shopping for a rust free car. Kyle did offer to swap them out for the full height but I already had the DSE SFC's installed and figured I should just cut the floor...live and learn!

[FaBrycation]

looking good! hopefully i'll get to see it sometime.

[Vegas69]

Anthony...I am hoping to not feel that pain. Appreciate the kind words sick 4dr. Well me and Curtis spent a **** load of time tonight getting the bellhousing in alignment. It was setting right at .015 with the stock dowels. The best we could do with the offset dowels was .006. We found that about a inch of the bellhousing was rough enough to really sway our readings. The spec is .005 so we figure it's closer than most and basically it amounts to .0005 out of spec due to the circumfrance. So we spent 2 hours screwing with the dowels and runout and 15 minutes installing the engine. Gotta love it. Here she is boys. Fits nice.

[Spiffav8]

That bad boy went in Super Smooth! Hope the rest of the car goes that easy.