1970 Firebird suggestions

[sledge33]

hello,I also have a 71 bird i have been working on.just put in a 455 from another firebird i bought a while back.Frank at prodigy got me the g-bar and mini tubs from dse.20x10 with a 315 rear tire and it sits low.its stripped down ready to go to paint.i hope to be able to drive it some this summer but you know how paint shops are.
call frank at prodigy he has always treated me right and got me just what i needed.

[70Firbird]

Thanks sledge33, will do, Frank sounds like a very helpful guy from the responses I have been getting.

[NOT A TA]

Looks like a pretty good car you've got to start with there. Are the wheels on it original 70 rims? If you're not sure get the codes off of them (by the valve stem I think)and post them up here. Someone will tell you if they're the highly sought after rims. If they are you could Ebay them and probably get enough from someone restoring an original 70 TA to buy a nice set of new wheels.

Mine was an Esprit, I added all the TA body parts. At least you got a rear spoiler a cool hood and some wheels! All I got was 3 dog dish hubcaps!

Sounds like a suspension setup something like mine for would be fine for you. Stock subframe with aftermarket springs, sways, shocks, bushings, connectors etc. If you lower it but don't mini tub it be carefull how wide you go with the rear tires since there might be 4 adults a full tank and a spare.

I got my MOMO wheel from Frank (too bad it wasn't straight for this pic)

[70Firbird]

Very nice interior! I'm missing my carpet, I tore it out cuz it was all tattered. Passenger seat has a rip, driver seat has a seat cover. Amazingly my headliner and everything is still in good condition, but there's a lot of work to be done. Where did you find all your interior pieces such as your center console? I'm not sure if I want to lower it, but why not mini tub it? I would think that would be the only way to go with the amount of power I'd like to put down (shafiroff motor). Would an aftermarket subframe be more straight line oriented? Any reason why you chose to keep the stock subframe?

btw I really like your side exhaust... Mine is an Espirit as well, the hood on my car used to be an original formula hood that i cut to look better. I didn't like the way the vents bent forward like a retarded duck. what kind of motor are you running?

[Marcus SC&C]

Cool cars and `70 is my favorite year. I should never have sold my `70 RAIII Formula 400 (or the 7 other 2nd Gens I`ve had...). Oh well...
These cars are a big step ahead of the earlier generation F cars in handling and drivability. Their bumpsteer is comparable overall with a 2002 and their geometry isn`t too bad at all,just too mild. They respond very well to a more performance oriented alignment too.
First step make sure all the boring,normal stuff is in good shape. Subframe bushings,tie rod ends,etc. and bring them up to par.
Next subframe connectors. Solid subframe bushings are also a good idea.
Now springs and shocks. Matched front and rear springs from a reputable company OR make the decision to upgrade the rear leafs to a link/coil over conversion like the excellent Alston G-Bar. Don`t skimp on the shocks! I know it`s tempting but don`t do it! At least stock replacement Bilsteins of Konis for a "driving around car" and adj. Varishock aluminum shocks are a real nice upgrade if the budget allows. Good shocks are worth every penny and more.
Geometry and alignment, the stock geometry is okay but very mild. A StreetComp Stage 1 package really punches up the geometry as well as allowing for a lot more alignment adjustment. We have guys pulling over 1G at less than 2* of body roll (on DOT tires) with StreetComp equipped 2nd gens! Dial it all in with a good alignment,shoot for -1/2* camber and +5.5* caster. 1/8" total toe in or 1/16" if you like the car a little more responsive.
Last step,tune with swaybars. With good front geometry a huge front bar isn`t necessary for a street car. If the car pushed a little try a rear bar. If it`s loose try a larger front one. Don`t spend money on bars until the car`s together in it`s more of less final configuration. You can`t tune what you haven`t driven yet.
Bells and whistles,these are mostly tuning aids and misc. cool stuff. Front coil overs,a custom Lee steering box,tubular lower A arms, underhood bracing etc. If you choose well they can really enhance the performance and give you more tuning options but get the big stuff done first and you`ll be better off unless you can afford to do a whole bunch of stuff all at once.
If you have any other questions go ahead and give us a call and take advantage of our free "Suspension Counseling Service". Mark SC&C

[NOT A TA]

My interior was red when I got my car and I like the old school black vinyl look so I changed the interior color. My console came in the car(with the standard issue cigarette burn holes) and I repaired it with a vinyl repair kit from The Eastwood Co. before dying it with S.E.M. vinyl dye (I have mixed atmy local paint shop) shot with a jamb gun.

Sure mini tub it! I was just warning you not to try to go too wide with the tires without doing the tubs since you said you'd be carrying a full load of people. I get away with 315's in the rear without any mods at all but if I carried 4 adults and extra weight I'd probably cut the tires on the fender lip.

As far as suspension Mark pretty much nailed that. I wish I'd done solid body mounts instead of the polys and weld in connectors instead of the bolt in ones. I'll change them both eventually but for now the car works fine and I'll spend the money on entry fees!

I'm taking my car in to get the front end realigned in the morning. When I replaced all of the steering and suspension parts I used the recommendations from Hotchkis for the settings when using their springs, sways etc. and I'm wearing out the outside edges of the front tires using the car on road courses. I think maybe the camber isn't right but I'm no front end guru. I'm gonna have the front set up with Marks specs and try them out since he was kind enough to post them.

The engine in my car is a Pontiac 400 I pulled from a GTO clone build that burned up I bought and parted out a couple years ago. '75 block, '68#16 heads,Canton RR pan, MSD pro billet W/6A box & Blaster 2, Speed Demon on Edelbrock fed by Holley Blue, Flowkooler pump,Performance Products balancer. Nothing really powerfull or exotic just solid reliable performance. I use a 2.41 rear for high speed stuff and a 3.73 for drags and short stuff and have a couple different sets of wheels/tires.

I like your scoop chop! It'll give your car a different look.

[70Firbird]

NOT A TA: are you planning on eventually switching motors or you gonna stick with your 400?

Marcus: Thanks for the advice. How much would you estimate all the parts to be? I'd like to change all the bushings along with anything that is subject to wear and tear. I'd also def want to get rid of the rear leafs etc. New shocks, springs/coils, streetcomp kit, as well as a mini tub kit? Whatever you would recommend. Give me a couple package combinations to look at. I'm a very performance oriented guy, but I don't want to over do it and completely trash any comfort since this will be a daily. I'm also planning to run tires with a little thicker profile for a more old school rally look at the same time absorbing most bumps on the road.