We own both full frame and subframe cars, in convertibles to boot. if the subframe car is reinforced with a roll bar system, it is going to be plenty strong.
If I jack up EmptyNest (subrame) or Project Prodigy (full frame) the door gap will open a tiny bit on EmptyNest, but only a tiny bit. On Prodigy, no opening at all. Prodigy is amazingly stiff.
Is it worth the 1000 hours of extra work.................Hell No!
We own both full frame and subframe cars, in convertibles to boot. if the subframe car is reinforced with a roll bar system, it is going to be plenty strong.
If I jack up EmptyNest (subrame) or Project Prodigy (full frame) the door gap will open a tiny bit on EmptyNest, but only a tiny bit. On Prodigy, no opening at all. Prodigy is amazingly stiff.
Is it worth the 1000 hours of extra work.................Hell No!
Okay Frank , are you in that spray booth without a mask again!!! Just messen with ya!!!
when I built mine I was considering the same Idea of a full frame option for my 68. I opted for the AME rear triangulated 4 bar clip which was .120 wall 2x4 rails, subframe conncectors are also .120 2x4 through floor style, with AME gt front clip and I tied it all togeather with a 8 point cage, so its going to be real stiff. I would have went with a full frame from AME if I would have needed floors. I could have bought the front and rear clips with sub frame connectors already welded in but for me the end result was the the same either way.
when I built mine I was considering the same Idea of a full frame option for my 68. I opted for the AME rear triangulated 4 bar clip which was .120 wall 2x4 rails, subframe conncectors are also .120 2x4 through floor style, with AME gt front clip and I tied it all togeather with a 8 point cage, so its going to be real stiff. I would have went with a full frame from AME if I would have needed floors. I could have bought the front and rear clips with sub frame connectors already welded in but for me the end result was the the same either way.