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View Poll Results: What would you be willing to do to install a full-frame chassis?
I'll do anything. Cut parts of the firewall, floors and trunk completely out and fab new pieces. 22 70.97%
I'll fab a trunk or a a portion of the firewall, but I won't cut the floor out. 2 6.45%
I don't mind fabbing a new floor, but I wont touch the trunk or firewall. 1 3.23%
I would only cut the floor if I had a pre-made floor pan to weld back in. 6 19.35%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 31. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 11-10-2005, 02:55 PM
race-rodz race-rodz is offline
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what does the "average" chassis tip the scales at? complete with all the suspension........ add the weight of the body shell and new int tin, how does it compare to a traditional unibody car?

obviously sacrificing "some" weight for the rigid, updated suspension.... is acceptable.... im just curious about how much.
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Old 11-11-2005, 05:46 AM
ProdigyCustoms ProdigyCustoms is offline
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The problem I see is the interior flooring and seating has to be on top of the frame rails. If you channel the body on a Camaro, you will need to be 5'6" or less to sit in the car in the front seats, and worse in the rear seat.
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Old 11-11-2005, 06:42 AM
Silver69Camaro Silver69Camaro is offline
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Race-Rodz,
The average chassis weighs about 425 lbs complete less brakes and axle shafts. Bare chassis weigh somewhere between 160-200lbs.

This WILL weigh more in a traditional unibody...thankfully you are adding weight to the center and down below. The weight difference isn't a whole lot, and is certainly offset by the increased performance.

Prodigy,
I understand your point. Keep in mind the floorpan in which the seat bolts to is already raised high above the rest of the floor, and there are a multitude of seat brackets (and you can make/modify your own) to make things work. Not all seats have the same padding height, either. We have a builder who built a car using our chassis for a guy that was about 6'2" (and about 230lbs, big guy), and he fits in there very comfortably. I believe that car was sectioned 3-1/4". This is a common concern for people, but is often not a problem.
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Old 11-11-2005, 06:51 AM
TravisB TravisB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver69Camaro

Prodigy,
I understand your point. Keep in mind the floorpan in which the seat bolts to is already raised high above the rest of the floor,

The factory floor pan in my A-body....the seat mount area is even with the top of the rocker!!!!!! So you would be loosing nothing.
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Old 11-11-2005, 10:43 AM
ProdigyCustoms ProdigyCustoms is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver69Camaro
Race-Rodz,
Prodigy,
I understand your point. Keep in mind the floorpan in which the seat bolts to is already raised high above the rest of the floor, and there are a multitude of seat brackets (and you can make/modify your own) to make things work. Not all seats have the same padding height, either. We have a builder who built a car using our chassis for a guy that was about 6'2" (and about 230lbs, big guy), and he fits in there very comfortably. I believe that car was sectioned 3-1/4". This is a common concern for people, but is often not a problem.
The car built for the 6'2" guy, was that a Camaro? A Camaro seat pan is about 2" below the rocker top at the front edge, and about 3 1/2" below the rocker top at the rear of the pan, making the seat go lower as it goes back. The stock floor actually dips lower then the bottom rocker on a Camaro at the seat pan on the bottom of the car.

If the seat is at the top of the 4" rocker, which it would be in a full channeled application, with the thinnest of seat bottoms, a full grown man cannot ride in it. Also, floor pans that are the same height, or almost the same height as the seat tend to cause circulation problems in the legs on long trips, making it uncomfortable to drive, so building the seat into a recess bucket of sorts is not an option either. I only speak from first hand experiance trying to chassis these cars. We have done it, but there are always sacrifices unless you can get the exhaust out the side with fenderwell outlets, or through the tunnel. Then the floor can be at the bottom of the frame, belly style, curing all the issues. As I said, we just finished one of these. If your frame was modified slightly, changing the exhaust routing, this could be done and would be a popular swap. It would only require changes to the center rails, or removal of the center rails if you think it would be strong enough without those rails.
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Old 11-11-2005, 12:14 PM
Silver69Camaro Silver69Camaro is offline
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Prodigy,
I won't name names, but it was a Challenger. The car sat EXTREMELY low and still mainainted 4" of ground clearance, the roof may have been chopped also. But anyway, The seats were angled back a bit to get the man to fit (I asked Craig, he's 6'3").

All in all, this chassis is nothing new. Many builders have been using it, and seat height just hasn't been an issue; there are many ways around it.

Mark,
I agree with your statement wholly. Like you said, the chassis should be welded to the body (and is how we recommend it). I also agree that you really cannot start to dramatically increase torsional rigidity until you triangulate the chassis in some manner (or other means). Simple engineering statics, no big deal. However, we aren't dealing with the type of customer who is willing to turn his Chevelle into a Cup car.

I also agree that unibody cars can be quite good with SFC. Take my car, for example, as I installed DSE SFCs a while back (with solid bushings). Is the car still flimsy? Yeah, it is. Don't get me wrong, it's a world of difference, but it's still not very rigid (and I agree, it's not crap). But, if you were you jack up the car by the rocker (just rear of the front wheel), the front tire will be completely off the ground before rear really starts to rise. This is a rust-free original car w/ no prior accidents.

Now, try this with a new unibody car (RWD, though). The wheels will lift pretty close to the same time. I mention this because I have nothing against unibody cars, and like you said, they can be made quite well (and are often light weight!). Newer technology has greatly enhanced the stiffness of unibody chassis, something that may be lacking with older cars.

The only thing that we can produce is a conventional-type frame that has increased stiffness, both bending and torsion. I apologize if I sounded as if it was the stiffest thing available, but it IS better (through hand and COSMOS evaluations) than factory-stock frames. In my eyes, comparing the torsional strength of this chassis of this chassis to a high-end monocoque or caged chassis would be unfair, it's a whole differrent ballgame.

Well, this post has taken a turn that wasn't intended. My orginal thoughts were to gather some market data on how to ease the predetermined notions of pain about installing these frames. But hey, I enjoy addressing concerns or new ideas.
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Old 11-12-2005, 07:56 AM
ProdigyCustoms ProdigyCustoms is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver69Camaro
Prodigy,

Well, this post has taken a turn that wasn't intended. My orginal thoughts were to gather some market data on how to ease the predetermined notions of pain about installing these frames. But hey, I enjoy addressing concerns or new ideas.
I hope I did not turn the post, this was not my intent as I am a big advocate for full chassis, in fact we just finished using one of your chassis in a 55 Chevy project and we loved it. There was a thread on this subject on another forum, installing it in Camaro's, and the solution proposed by someone then was to eliminate the center rails, as some builders have done. I believe it was Craig that ultimatly came in and said the center rails would be needed, at least in convertibles if I remeber correctly. I really think it is a fantastic chassis, and I love the full frame idea. We have two projects, one in house and another for a client, that both need full frames. Maybe next week we can get some measurements and share some ideas, off the forum, for fitting into a Camaro and curing my concerns.
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Old 11-12-2005, 09:35 AM
Mean 69 Mean 69 is offline
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Please don't take my comments as offensive, and I appreciate the response. The point I was trying to get across is that "if" a person does want a really rigid chassis, it can be done without a full frame install. If a person is really concerned about ultimate cornering, etc, then that person should also be very concerned about safety, which would merit a cage. A cage is an easier install than a full frame as I understand the complexity of the full frame install, it is pretty invasive, and as you pointed out, it adds quite a bit of weight to boot.

You will never be able to eliminate torsional rigidity issues, but for the vast majority of folks, the DSE type sfc's are adequate. Hell, my late model 911 has chassis flex, I can feel it easily, but the car still handles extremely well, and flat hauls ass. I feel less chassis flex in my 69 Camaro than I do with that car, by the way.

M
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