Project "Payback" - Lateral-g Forums

Vegas69 · #1 10-19-2009, 07:01 AM

The steering feel seemed a little different with the new pump. I'm running the shocks with a little more compression out back so that may be causing the difference in feel on the street. Worked fine on the track but so did the old one. This was just an autocross.

The brakes are OK on the street and good on a road course. Keep in mind on an autocross you have a slalom and many corners in different directions quickly. It causes the worst brake pad knock back imaginable. If you have never autocrossed your car, then you may have a problem. On the road course you have long straights and a chance for a quick pump between corners. It also builds more heat and they love that. I really like autocross and can't live with these brakes........... The real problem is fluid volume. That little 7/8 piston can't push enough fluid to push back the caliper pistons without an excessive stroke. I can't go any larger on a manual system. I also can't tighten up my axles any more reliably and my front C6 bearing packs are as tight as can be. Greg, these will pop your eyes out of your head as well, but just not with a consistent brake pedal.....

**GregWeld** · #2 10-19-2009, 07:22 AM

I hear ya on the pad knockback....

It may be that the floating caliper is a better application than the fixed (Wilwood) version for THIS application (Auto X)...

I spent a bunch of time with knowledgeable brake people - the factory reps at Brembo - Wilwood and Baer... My questions were always around one factor - DO I NEED A POWER BOOSTER of some kind... given a two ton car... and relatively high power. They all asked me if any of the race cars out there used power brakes... and that answer is NO. So that is why I went with the 7/8" Wilwood manual master cylinder. BUT I have Baer brakes which are floating calipers...

I would think that the larger the rotor - the more knock-back would be applied - as a small movement would be magnified by the diameter of the rotor. So NOW I'M WONDERING if a simple 2 # residual valve wouldn't "help". This would keep 2 #'s of 'pressure' (check valve) on the line...

Maybe the guys at KORE3 would have some ideas??

Vegas69 · #3 10-19-2009, 07:28 AM

I agree the floater would be a much better option. I am running a 2# now and it made no difference. It's just not enough to move a caliper piston. I have all this money tied up in these calipers and e brake setup. A hydraboost will be cheaper but will I be happy with it? Guess I better do my due diligence. There has been talk of a 10# residual and that wouldn't bother me on a track car. But I do drive it alot of the street and that worries me a little.

**GregWeld** · #4 10-19-2009, 07:31 AM

Makes me wonder what The Pozzi's would run... or what Steve is running on Bad Penny etc.

Vegas69 · #5 10-19-2009, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Makes me wonder what The Pozzi's would run... or what Steve is running on Bad Penny etc.

I was thinking about that the other day....I may be doing a little detective work in a couple weeks. You in?

**GregWeld** · #6 10-19-2009, 07:41 AM

I will post this - you might have read it already - but as usual - "others" here may not be as familiar with all of this - and these forums (IMHO) are best used for LEARNING lots of stuff - even if it doesn't directly affect "us"...

This is a link to StopTech - and a page on KNOCKBACK...

In the short read -- they offer some "advice" -- and in the end... their advice for a STREET driven TRACK CAR is to get used to tapping the brakes!!

But here it is - because it offers solutions to think about - and it's a good read.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_knockback.shtml

**tones2SS** · #7 10-19-2009, 08:09 AM

Good to hear you had a good day except for the brakes Todd.
Glad the power steering worked out. Your car is sick. It must have felt awesome outrunning those other cars out there!
Keep up the great work.