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  #11  
Old 09-22-2009, 06:52 PM
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I agree with cheapta rust that aint no stinkin rust ! when I stripped mine I knelt on the rear floor and went right through it. thats rust. Maybe try sanding or wire brushing to see how bad .
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  #12  
Old 09-22-2009, 07:08 PM
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I agree with cheapta rust that aint no stinkin rust ! when I stripped mine I knelt on the rear floor and went right through it. thats rust. Maybe try sanding or wire brushing to see how bad .
yeah but the camera doesn't do it justice theres pretty bad rust pin holes on the floor boards on both driver and passenger sides trunks absolutely horrible it has one spot that has a rust hole bigger than a quarter
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Old 09-22-2009, 07:46 PM
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It's hard to tell from pictures, but in the second set of pictures inside the quarter there appears to be some rot at the door jamb structure. It's really hard to tell. Get in there with a shop vac and clean it out real good.

The floors look good from the picture, but you're the one looking at it in person. I, for one, wanted a clean undercarriage, so I replaced my entire floor and trunk. My trunk had some ugly rust holes under the spare tire, and the floor was rusted in the same area as yours, but slightly worse (mine was pitted and rusted through. It depends on how far you want to go with it. The floor replacement is not hard, just time consuming. The same goes for the full trunk replacement. As i mentioned to you on the phone, DON'T buy the 68 pan. Buy the 67 since you'll be removing the shock towers anyway when tubbing it.

Looks good. Keep the photos coming!
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  #14  
Old 11-28-2009, 12:26 PM
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Is something wrong here?
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:00 PM
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remember - surface rust can be dealt with, rust holes can be repaired, but rot is rot and that has to be replaced.

A perfect example is the '69 that Chris Fesler bought from Tyler's client. It really was a solid car...but had some rust so Chris did patches on it...that way he was able to keep all the OE panels (they fit nice!) and the metal work didn't spiral out of control. Once you really tare into a car and start replacing many panels you are talking a lot of metal work...and then comes the huge hours of fitting sheet metal and body work! Todd's car is also a great example of patshing the bad areas and moving on.

I would clean up the metal and see what you really have. Surface rust is very common so don't freak out. Patches can be done and if done correctly are undetectable. On my floor I had a few pin holes that I welded up and one small patch that I had to do on the floor...deffinatly wasn't worth cutting the floor out.

Let us know what you have once you dig a little deeper!!
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:17 PM
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well yeah but what about the steel plate behind the y braces was that stock?
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:23 PM
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well yeah but what about the steel plate behind the y braces was that stock?
No.....
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Old 11-28-2009, 04:46 PM
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so I have all the tools I need to do this but I'm going to be real honest I'am abosolutly scared out of my mind of replacing sheet metal on this car out of fear im going to get in over my head! especially since i still owe on this darn thing
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Old 11-28-2009, 05:04 PM
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How are the quarter panels on the car? Especially around the wheel wells. Have you ever done any sand blasting? Panel replacement really isn't that hard as long as you don't tackle to much at a time and have a lot of patience. The new panels can be held on with screws, clamps, or clecos until you get it to fit perfect before welding. I have worked on a lot of first gens and yours looks to be in great shape, they all have some rust even if people use the phrase "rust free".
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Old 11-28-2009, 05:12 PM
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pretty much everyhting needs to be replaced on the back end except maybe roof skin but since im going to do the quarters might as well do the roof to
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