Todd did you look into Hotchkis end links for C5, Maybe Im wrong but I do believe there shorter. If your looking into an offset type let me know.
From the video it looks like you had a blast over the holiday. Next time Im there for the International Builders Show Ill have to look you up.
I did notice the hotchkis ends but won't know what I need length wise until I get my bracket mounted. I bet they end up working just fine. Give me a hollar next time you're in town.
I did notice the hotchkis ends but won't know what I need length wise until I get my bracket mounted. I bet they end up working just fine. Give me a hollar next time you're in town.
Builders show is 2nd week in Jan already. Considering I was just out that way it may not happen unless the little lady is looking for a mini vac.
Whats up with the knock back issues. Seems like you have tried to correct a ton of items already and it still isnt all good. What were Paytons suggestions.
Just lucky I guess. It's not as rare are you think. There are 4 fixed calipers and 275mm/335mm of R compound that will pull more G's than most sports cars. It stresses everything. I bet a 10 psi residual out back will fix it, I'm just worried about excess heat. I've also considered doing springs behind the caliper pistons like they did in the old days. Wilwood claims it won't work, but I don't think they want the liability of telling me to mod my calipers. The other alternative is a floating rear end. Power brakes with a larger piston would help dramatically but I don't make enough vaccum. A hydraboost unit would also allow a bigger piston and would help dramtically but I like manual brakes on the race track. I know how to fix it, it's just at what compromise and how much money I want to spend.
Well I decided the engine needed torn down and inspected after an oil filter examination. For those of you that have been following along, I lost a bronze distributor gear at around 1800 miles on the engine. The engine builder made a mistake. The camshaft has a cast gear and you can't use a bronze gear.....Anyway, all that debris went through the motor from day 1. I changed the oil twice within 500 miles and found bronze and silver metallics. I've put about 1500 miles on the car since the last oil change. This time it was no different. The engine clearly was slowly hurting itself. Every pleet had some bronze and silver.
I started at about 9 and Aj showed up at around 10:30. We had it on the stand by 1:30 or so. Thanks for the help. You talk about a flippin mess!!!!!
I ripped into it yesterday afternoon but ran out of steam and needed a 7/16 12 point 3/8 to loosen the rod bolts. I have done a brief inspection and here are some of the biggest findings.
Most bearings had distributor gear debris embedded. The worst were the bearings that had actually started coming apart and had deep pits. Number 3 main and number 4 cam bearing were the worst. I also found 2 pushrods with excess wear.
So anyway, would the engine have lasted a while? Maybe..... but I wasn't taking any chances of grenading the motor on the road course etc. Now I need to find a reputable engine shop that can blueprint, re balance the crank, hot tank the block, etc. Any recomendations will be appreciated.
Now for the fun part, more compression and a mechanical cam. I'll put it together and make sure it's done right. It will be better. Here is where I stand.
Man, it's always something huh, Todd? Sucks about the engine, but at least no major damage. Now you can rebuild it yourself and KNOW FOR A FACT that it is good to go!
GOOD LUCK BUD & cool of AJ to come over and help out!
So anyway, would the engine have lasted a while? Maybe..... but I wasn't taking any chances of grenading the motor on the road course etc. Now I need to find a reputable engine shop that can blueprint, re balance the crank, hot tank the block, etc. Any recomendations will be appreciated.
Now for the fun part, more compression and a mechanical cam. I'll put it together and make sure it's done right. It will be better. Here is where I stand.
Good luck with this Todd and as stated IT WILL BE BETTER Up here we call that winter work. But considering where your from there's no such thing I guess.
Bummer man... where do you go from here? Anything happening with the engine builder about this?
I won't even bother to make that call. He said he'd own up to it but I don't believe him and if he did, I'd see my parts in 6 months. It's really not a huge deal. Crank is probably polishable and the cylinders are in good shape. I could redo it fairly inexpensively. If I need new pistons to raise the compression, I may just punch it out to 496. I'm happy with the parts. Most seem high quality. The timing chain was really loose for 3500 miles. It will need to be replaced. If it wasn't for the distributor gear, I think the engine would've lived a long life. I can make a ton more power with what I have in mind and be just as streetable. Stay tuned....
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
It's not as rare are you think. There are 4 fixed calipers and 275mm/335mm of R compound that will pull more G's than most sports cars. It stresses everything. I bet a 10 psi residual out back will fix it, I'm just worried about excess heat. I've also considered doing springs behind the caliper pistons like they did in the old days. Wilwood claims it won't work, but I don't think they want the liability of telling me to mod my calipers. The other alternative is a floating rear end. Power brakes with a larger piston would help dramatically but I don't make enough vaccum. A hydraboost unit would also allow a bigger piston and would help dramtically but I like manual brakes on the race track. I know how to fix it, it's just at what compromise and how much money I want to spend. 
You talk about a flippin mess!!!!!
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