1970 Camaro RS Operation Budget LSx

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by GM Muscle

be sure to do one bolt at a time. it will be a fast a painless process. i took mine and backed the bolt all the way out then in a bout 5 turns. then grabbed some channel locks and "yanked" on the bolt head. it brought the ferrel out with it. then just put the arp bolt in and torque it, be sure to use the installation grease when installing them. then move on to the next bolt.. ls1howto.com has some good info floating around ...

Remember that NEW bolts aren't to torque spec until you've torqued them MULTIPLE TIMES... My advice when using NEW bolts like this - is to torque them all == then back 'em all off - and torque 'em again - and do this about FIVE TIMES.... to final torque. It takes a little bit more time - but is good insurance.

[LSXZ28]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Remember that NEW bolts aren't to torque spec until you've torqued them MULTIPLE TIMES... My advice when using NEW bolts like this - is to torque them all == then back 'em all off - and torque 'em again - and do this about FIVE TIMES.... to final torque. It takes a little bit more time - but is good insurance.

Good advice! I've seen alot of leaking head gaskets because someone didn't want to take the time to do this! New bolts gotta be stretched, or they will do it themselves later. 5 times is what ARP recommends...

[68400BIRD]

Just trying to learn here. If you install new rod bolts shouldn't the ends be resized???

[1970camaroRS]

Originally Posted by 68400BIRD

Just trying to learn here. If you install new rod bolts shouldn't the ends be resized???

Nope, not on LS motors. On a classic small block, the rod has a different design that requires a resize when you mess with the rod bolts (not actually bolts on a SBC). On LS motors, the rods are held together with actual bolts, and all you need to do is replace and torque them.

[Vegas69]

And that's because the rods have sleeves to align the cap and rod.

[93Polo]

Originally Posted by 1970camaroRS

Nope, not on LS motors. On a classic small block, the rod has a different design that requires a resize when you mess with the rod bolts (not actually bolts on a SBC). On LS motors, the rods are held together with actual bolts, and all you need to do is replace and torque them.

I don't think you have to resize the rods on some of the LT1/4 stuff and vortec motors. The cracked beam powdered metal rods first came out in the LT1s. Just be sure the caps are not mixed up and they go on as they came off.

[1970camaroRS]

Worked my butt off last night. Got the oil pump installed and got the timing cover to fit right. It ended up working without the shims on the oil pump because the SLP pump is already clearanced for the double roller. I just had to tweek a few high spots on the back of the pump. I also, for the sake of science, got the cover to fit with the shims in place...but decided I liked the install without the shims. Didn't like the ammount of pre-load on the cover, I'm sure it would have leaked.

Also got the rod-bolts installed. Curious thing, the ARP instructions say the rods should be resized. Did a little digging and found that the instructions for the LS1 rodbolt kit are the same instructions that come with the SBC kit.

Pictures to come tonight.

[WSSix]

The rod and I believe main bearings on an LS1 are the same as an SBC. You can put the lifters into a roller L98/LT1/4 and that's about it that swaps or is the same.

Good build up you have going there.

[GM Muscle]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Remember that NEW bolts aren't to torque spec until you've torqued them MULTIPLE TIMES... My advice when using NEW bolts like this - is to torque them all == then back 'em all off - and torque 'em again - and do this about FIVE TIMES.... to final torque. It takes a little bit more time - but is good insurance.

i did mine like arp recommended. torqued to spec 3 times..

[70rs]

Looking good Nate! I can almost smell the tire smoke from here.