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Old 03-21-2010, 03:41 PM
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Thanks Scott, Eric ( Hwy Nova ) did the technical difficult work I just spit out the ideas. I have been amazed that it goes together so well with nothing more then a big table. We TIG welded this frame together moving the heat around and have not experience much distortion. I really think we might be on to something they have been doing this in the off road business for a few years now with round tube chassis's. they just need a solid table to build off of.

Once I get the remaining parts finalized and worked into the drawing we will ship a few out to some guys to test. I guess we will find out if we are that good or how easy it really is. The last 4 frames we have done like this were easy as pie on a 5x10 steel table with no fixtures of jig to speak of.
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Old 03-21-2010, 05:21 PM
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I can see a downside. Some cheap ass buys it along with a new welder and goes to town and it's all tweaked. I'd certainly cover my aise with some instructions on how to weld it with settings, moving around while welding, and break time. We all know just how inept the general public can be.
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Old 03-21-2010, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Vegas69 View Post
I can see a downside. Some cheap ass buys it along with a new welder and goes to town and it's all tweaked. I'd certainly cover my aise with some instructions on how to weld it with settings, moving around while welding, and break time. We all know just how inept the general public can be.
That's why I wanted to try some of these out on a few different people and see what they thought about instructions and different assembly procedures. There are alot of under achieving dumb asses out there. I want to develop a website with the build of these "TEST" frames to be built and street driven in a build series.

I also thought about not selling the suspension until the frame passes a visual test..... Selling a dumb ass a 1000hp crate engine has to be a bigger risk then selling a guy a DIY frame....
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Old 03-21-2010, 06:24 PM
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Rodger have you thought about including fixtures to keep the tolerances correct? After you tack it together you installed 3 or 4 cross braces in specific locations (make it like the body mounts so you can't screw it up). That way you know that when "Jimmy" goes to town with the 110 welder at least the geometry will be correct. Because you know a DIY'r is going to assemble and weld it on the garage floor.

For example Kyle @ DSE developed a jig for their 1st gen coilover conversion. You bolt the jig into the engine mount holes and it locates the brackets for you.
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Old 03-21-2010, 06:58 PM
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That is the idea we are using. The rear crossmember behind the bumper is 1.5" tubing we cut that piece to 40.75 and cap both ends and slide the open holes on the end of the chassis onto that piece of tube and weld it flush on the outside and you now have aligned the rear of the chassis and set the width. We also use the lower link mount for the 4 link that is in the chassis. Plus the front crossmember tabs through the inside and out plate of the frame rail.

You guys should build a Tri-5 with one of these chassis's. Tracy was talking about getting one to see what the dream weaver could do in an upholstry shop.
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:13 PM
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Hey Rodger,

I've been thinking about doing something like this at work but this would certainly save me a ton of time. Anyone know if the mounting locations are the same between the Chev and the Pontiac?

-J

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Old 03-21-2010, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by slow4dr View Post
Hey Rodger,

I've been thinking about doing something like this at work but this would certainly save me a ton of time. Anyone know if the mounting locations are the same between the Chev and the Pontiac?

-J

Unmolested

brings up a good question Rodger. Which body is the frame setup for? sedan, ht, wagon, vert? Most bodies share most all same mounting points except for a couple locations either added or moved depending on which body is being installed.
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Old 03-22-2010, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironworks View Post
That is the idea we are using. The rear crossmember behind the bumper is 1.5" tubing we cut that piece to 40.75 and cap both ends and slide the open holes on the end of the chassis onto that piece of tube and weld it flush on the outside and you now have aligned the rear of the chassis and set the width. We also use the lower link mount for the 4 link that is in the chassis. Plus the front crossmember tabs through the inside and out plate of the frame rail.

You guys should build a Tri-5 with one of these chassis's. Tracy was talking about getting one to see what the dream weaver could do in an upholstry shop.
I'm building a 57 right now, but the customer's budget didn't allow for an aftermarket chassis. But I'm far from a garage guy if I bought one it would go one the chassis table and get welded down before we burnt it in.
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Old 03-22-2010, 07:56 AM
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Just to answer some peoples questions here are some assembly pics of a rail going together.







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Last edited by ironworks; 03-22-2010 at 08:04 AM.
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Old 03-21-2010, 05:24 PM
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Very funny how you get your Knickers in a Knot if people dont approve of you 'Desiiign & Engineeering' dare i say....!
Oh what about the Engineeering.... hmmm Any real world testing? Hmmm
Nothing...
If they screw up welding this and comes off the road hurting himself or Others?
Public Liability Heard of that?
I cant wait to see the rest of it
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