? on power window install - Lateral-g Forums

brans72 · #1 04-27-2010, 03:04 AM

You trying to get me to think twice Scott? I have stock manual window still in the garage. I figured power would be nice but maybe we should poll this ? Brandon

**GregWeld** · #2 04-27-2010, 07:03 AM

I'd be checking the grounds.. they should NOT be "wimpy".

I have power windows in 3 different hot rods -- and they work GREAT.

**camcojb** · #3 04-27-2010, 07:36 AM

I removed the power windows in my Chevelle for the same reason Scott mentioned. If you open the door they were fine to roll up, but with the door shut the motors are set to stop way before they compress the rubber glass seals at the top and sides............. (speaking of the built in torque limits of the motors, not the actual height the window goes which is adjustable).

You know how on these older cars with manual window cranks you need to roll the window up into the rubber seal and give it just a little "oommph"..... the electric life units won't do that, as soon as they meet "X" amount of resistance the motors stop. If that was adjustable you could probably solve the issue. I know Scott just opens his door when the window is going all the way up, but to be correct you shouldn't have to do that. Had the same issue with the rear 1/4 windows, as they rub the rubber channel on the top and rear as they go up. If I sprayed Windex on the rubber the windows would go all the way up................ as soon as it dried again they would not go to the top. I removed and sold mine, went back to manual.

Jody

**GregWeld** · #4 04-27-2010, 07:47 AM

Shoulda just used some rubber seal dressing.... even a bit of Armorall...

It's like putting new seals on the doors etc.... I always rub them with a bit of vaseline - and shut the door / trunk etc - the vaseline allows the rubber to move against the paint - until it takes a set. And it cleans off. I'm not talking about gooping it on there like a boxers face.... either.

HRBS · #5 04-27-2010, 07:53 AM

x2 on the wimpiness.
We installed an EL set in the 69 Mustang vert project and they are very weak. You can actually hear the motors strain.
But to answer your original question, if you are going to install them, do it after paint. The window felts can not be installed untill after paint if you want a clean paint job and if the glass is installed without those you risk shattering the glass during transit. The installation is very easy and you wont have a problem doing it after the car is already painted.

slenning · #6 04-27-2010, 08:39 AM

x 3 on the wimp factor. I cannot roll the windows on my Camaro up going down the road. You have to open the door , pull them up, and then shut the door.

snowskater6996 · #7 04-27-2010, 11:08 AM

Question are you running the power windows through relays? I have heard that hey helped with the wimpy problem

**camcojb** · #8 04-27-2010, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snowskater6996

Question are you running the power windows through relays? I have heard that hey helped with the wimpy problem

it's not a voltage issue........... it's how much torque the motors allow before they internally shut off.

Jody

**GregWeld** · #9 04-27-2010, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snowskater6996

Question are you running the power windows through relays? I have heard that hey helped with the wimpy problem

Relays are more about the capacity of the switch - over the voltage/amperage some load sees. Given the proper gauge wiring etc. The relay is just a switchable switch (I like that term).... but it doesn't raise or lower the voltage.

If you compare the wiring gauge on an older car - and then run it thru an old pull style switch - not only are you possibly reducing the voltage (contact switch) you're also arcing etc... that was fine with the old T12 headlights... but now we want to run big old nasty big watt jobbies.... NOW you need a relay and some appropriate gauge wiring to handle that load. If not - you'll overload the stock wiring - and you'll burn up the switch. Ditto an electric fan. You want the fan to get heavy gauge wiring - they can pull 30 amps momentary (start up load)... and you're switching them on via a short to ground thru the temp/switch. That's when you use a relay... to have the switch switch the switch....

It takes barely anything to switch the relay - and then the fan sees full voltage.

I'm only tossing this out there - because about 90% of the guys I know - still do not understand a "relay".

Mkelcy · #10 05-01-2010, 09:53 AM

My car's not on the road, but I recently installed electric driver's side front and rear quarter windows in my '68 Camaro. Because I was also installing the glass, I had to rig up a little wiring harness to power the motors while adjusting the glass. My temporary harness was about 5' of 12 gauge wire from the window switch to the motor wiring, and another 5' of 12 gauge wire from the window switch to the battery jumper cables that were hooked up to a 12v car battery. While I'd heard about the "wimpy" performance of the Electric Life electric windows, I was very impressed - again only during the glass install and adjustment process - with how quickly and powerfully the electric motors powered the windows up and tight against the weather stripping, even with the door closed.

However, and it's a big however, I was much less impressed with the wiring harness - which (IIRC) routes the power for the front window through the rear window switch in what looks like 16 gauge wiring. The harness is fused for 25 amps, and if the window motors are drawing 20 amps, the wiring should - given the length of the wiring runs - be sized at more like 12 gauge. I suspect that if the windows are "wimpy" it's because they're not getting enough juice. I'm still trying to decide whether to use the Electric Life harness, or to wire the windows more robustly from the start.