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Old 07-23-2010, 11:15 AM
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chr2002ca chr2002ca is offline
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I have the Global West ones and they fit pretty good and I'm not unhappy with them, but yes, the newer Hotchkis ones look like a better fit.
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Old 08-04-2010, 12:13 PM
Hotchkis Hotchkis is offline
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Thank you to everyone in this thread.

We worked extra hard on our subframe connectors to make sure they give our customers the most clearance and the best performance.



We always recommend welding in subframe connectors towards the end of the build. Ours are designed so you can bolt them in if absolutely necessary, but for maximum strength it's best to weld the bolt holes and if you're committed do a small perimeter weld around the front and rear backets. Because the welding is minimal and there is no cutting or relocating required, Hotchkis subframe installation is easily done on a freshly finished car. As for when to install exactly...how about "before the first burnouts"?



Many of our customers have had luck with Muffler shops doing the install. Just remember that it's critical that the rack they use is a drive-on rack where the car sits on the wheels with its full weight. Lifts that pick the car up by the frame don't work as the frame will not be settled correctly.


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Old 08-04-2010, 01:39 PM
130fe 130fe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chr2002ca View Post
I have the Global West ones and they fit pretty good and I'm not unhappy with them, but yes, the newer Hotchkis ones look like a better fit.
I agree with Chris (I have the GW ones also). If I did it over again I would get the hotchkis ones.
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Old 08-04-2010, 04:42 PM
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We use only the hotchkis ones as well.Very good fit.
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Old 02-27-2011, 02:18 PM
fastlaners fastlaners is offline
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Default Ideas on install of subconnectors

Hi; listening to install suggestions; it shows a four post style lift with tires on lift plates; to keep car on wheels/suspension during install. I have a two post lift with swinging-style arms; does anyone have any ideas on utilizing this style lift to do job? maybe some how spaning rockers; say maybe 2x4s on lift pads; to spread weight evenly on rocker lift points? the engine and interior is out of car so it is somewhat lighter. thanks Johns
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Old 02-27-2011, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastlaners View Post
Hi; listening to install suggestions; it shows a four post style lift with tires on lift plates; to keep car on wheels/suspension during install. I have a two post lift with swinging-style arms; does anyone have any ideas on utilizing this style lift to do job? maybe some how spaning rockers; say maybe 2x4s on lift pads; to spread weight evenly on rocker lift points? the engine and interior is out of car so it is somewhat lighter. thanks Johns
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotchkis
Just remember that it's critical that the rack they use is a drive-on rack where the car sits on the wheels with its full weight. Lifts that pick the car up by the frame don't work as the frame will not be settled correctly.
As I read it the weight has to be supposed on the wheels. Your two post will create alignment issues/challenges.
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Old 02-27-2011, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastlaners View Post
Hi; listening to install suggestions; it shows a four post style lift with tires on lift plates; to keep car on wheels/suspension during install. I have a two post lift with swinging-style arms; does anyone have any ideas on utilizing this style lift to do job? maybe some how spaning rockers; say maybe 2x4s on lift pads; to spread weight evenly on rocker lift points? the engine and interior is out of car so it is somewhat lighter. thanks Johns
You need to weld the subframe connectors in once ALL the weight is in the car. Its usually the last thing I do to the car. Either do it on jack stands with them under the rear axle and under the LBJ or on some wooden 2x4 stands like DSE uses.
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