Easy hp upgrades for stock LS1?

[youthpastor]

we did a LS2 swap in his 64 Buiweck and he laid down 400hp at the rear wheels at only 5K RPM's!! - still had break in oil in it- with only a cam and computer tune-

[64skylarkls1]

Great info guys. I'm not looking to come up with a magic number of hp no matter what it takes to get there, just the opposite. I only want what I can get with the least amount of investment.

Like many here, I know just enough to be dangerous if you know what I mean! I've read enough to know that the capablity of these motors is incredible. I just want whatever hp gains I can get EASILY and I DON"T want to sacrifice efficiency.

That being said, I will not get into heads and would like to keep the cost of the mods around $500. Sounds like a proper tune is a no brainer, I'll plan on it. Beyond that is where this forum will make the difference. A cam package can be done for about 200? Long tube headers around $250-$300? Is a fabricated forced air system from the cowl or grill worth the effort?

Anyone ever use long tube late model F-body headers on an A body like mine?

Thanks again,

Gene

[realcoray]

Originally Posted by 64skylarkls1

Great info guys. I'm not looking to come up with a magic number of hp no matter what it takes to get there, just the opposite. I only want what I can get with the least amount of investment.

Like many here, I know just enough to be dangerous if you know what I mean! I've read enough to know that the capablity of these motors is incredible. I just want whatever hp gains I can get EASILY and I DON"T want to sacrifice efficiency.

That being said, I will not get into heads and would like to keep the cost of the mods around $500. Sounds like a proper tune is a no brainer, I'll plan on it. Beyond that is where this forum will make the difference. A cam package can be done for about 200? Long tube headers around $250-$300? Is a fabricated forced air system from the cowl or grill worth the effort?

Anyone ever use long tube late model F-body headers on an A body like mine?

Thanks again,

Gene

As noted, saying a cam swap implies more with a LS1 than it does with older engines. A cam package is a cam + springs & pushrods and it's about 600$. You'd probably also be in the area where you'd want to consider rod bolt swap which is 200$ (if you buy katech, ARP are cheaper but there is some debate if you need to resize the rods or not).

Long tube headers that fit your car are probably more like 500$, attempting to use anything for another car will almost certainly be a cut and rework situation.

You will see some benefit from simply having a less restrictive intake path, but I wouldn't devote dozens of hours on building something unless you care about the appearance.

[64skylarkls1]

Wow, I guess I'm completely off base as far as what can be done for some lower dollars. Maybe I'll save the upgrades for the next winter project.

[74ls1nova]

I've been down this road twice now...

First version

00 LS1 Texas speed 233/239 cam kit. ARP rod bolts and 1 5/8 long tube headers. Th400 trans with 3200 stall conv. and a 9" with 3.25 gears. Car ran 11.95@114 and got 20mpg. Driveabilty was still great even for a driver.

Second version

07 6.0 L92 heads texas speed 229/236 cam kit. 1 7/8 headers ARP rod bolts. T56 6 speed 3.89 gears. Drove the car 650 mile round trip and got 24.2 mpg on the way home running 85-90.

All your driveabilty will all be in the tune. The parts are a lil more expensive but the power gains are worth it.

[64skylarkls1]

Originally Posted by 74ls1nova

I've been down this road twice now...

First version

00 LS1 Texas speed 233/239 cam kit. ARP rod bolts and 1 5/8 long tube headers. Th400 trans with 3200 stall conv. and a 9" with 3.25 gears. Car ran 11.95@114 and got 20mpg. Driveabilty was still great even for a driver.

Second version

07 6.0 L92 heads texas speed 229/236 cam kit. 1 7/8 headers ARP rod bolts. T56 6 speed 3.89 gears. Drove the car 650 mile round trip and got 24.2 mpg on the way home running 85-90.

All your driveabilty will all be in the tune. The parts are a lil more expensive but the power gains are worth it.

I understand that the set up you mentioned worked out well and it's great information but as I mentioned I don't have the time and resources to get that far into the motor right now. I'm doing a whole susension upgrade besides everything that's involved in the LS swap and other mods. My goal is to get the car driveable by spring or it will likely not be finished until next winter. My workload increases too much once the weather gets warm. For now, I was dreaming as many do - easy, economical bolt on performance.

[J2SpeedandCustom]

On an LS1 an 02 Z06 cam is a great inexpensive choice. The tune is the kicker. Get that car on a chassis dyno with the right guy/gal and make some power.

[64skylarkls1]

Originally Posted by J2SpeedandCustom

On an LS1 an 02 Z06 cam is a great inexpensive choice. The tune is the kicker. Get that car on a chassis dyno with the right guy/gal and make some power.

The Z06 cam could be dropped in without having to change springs and pushrods etc? I know there is much that should be freshened but as I mentioned not the time or funds right now. Is the cam job a lot different than the traditional small block? What kind of gains could be expected? I had also read somewhere that going to an LS6 mainfold makes a difference?

Thanks

[realcoray]

Originally Posted by 64skylarkls1

The Z06 cam could be dropped in without having to change springs and pushrods etc? I know there is much that should be freshened but as I mentioned not the time or funds right now. Is the cam job a lot different than the traditional small block? What kind of gains could be expected? I had also read somewhere that going to an LS6 mainfold makes a difference?

Thanks

Z06 cam is smaller base circle and so it's probably good to change pushrods. The LS6 motors also came with better springs too although they are cheaper than aftermarket ones.

The cam swap itself is probably easier than traditional and the gains all depend on how streetable you want it, but suffice it to say, you can gain a lot and still be perfect on the street.

The LS6 intake is slightly better although keep in mind later (I can't recall exact years) LS1 engines came with both LS6 blocks and intakes so you may not need it.

The best thing to do overall is read ls1tech for a bit so you know what you can do and what to expect.

[64skylarkls1]

Originally Posted by realcoray

Z06 cam is smaller base circle and so it's probably good to change pushrods. The LS6 motors also came with better springs too although they are cheaper than aftermarket ones.

The cam swap itself is probably easier than traditional and the gains all depend on how streetable you want it, but suffice it to say, you can gain a lot and still be perfect on the street.

The LS6 intake is slightly better although keep in mind later (I can't recall exact years) LS1 engines came with both LS6 blocks and intakes so you may not need it.

The best thing to do overall is read ls1tech for a bit so you know what you can do and what to expect.

You are correct about the LS6 manifold, I did a bit more research directly after my last post. Initially it appears that my 02 SS Z28 donor camaro would have come with the LS6 mainfold and block. So now I need to find out "When is an LS1 an LS1 and when is it an LS6? Is it the cam/springs that make the difference....the heads...the tune....? The only thing I can say positively is that I have more research to do! I would give my right *^% to talk to the LS Jedi Master as I've spent hundreds of hours in research starting with the basics of Protouring.