Project "Payback"

[BBC71Nova]

Wow this has me rethinking the plan to go with the G-link. I'll definitely be hitting the strip on occasion with some sticky tires and I'd prefer my framerails stay intact. One of the things I liked about the G-link was that it seemed to be the stronger setup of the popular 4-link setups available. Maybe it's worth opening up the outside rail and welding in some plate to strengthen that area of the rail as part of the install.

[coolwelder62]

Originally Posted by BBC71Nova

Wow this has me rethinking the plan to go with the G-link. I'll definitely be hitting the strip on occasion with some sticky tires and I'd prefer my framerails stay intact. One of the things I liked about the G-link was that it seemed to be the stronger setup of the popular 4-link setups available. Maybe it's worth opening up the outside rail and welding in some plate to strengthen that area of the rail as part of the install.

Isn't Dan Holohan working on your Nova.I belive he is one of the best fabricator's to ever turn on a welder.Ask Dan how he would install your rear suspension.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by BBC71Nova

Wow this has me rethinking the plan to go with the G-link. I'll definitely be hitting the strip on occasion with some sticky tires and I'd prefer my framerails stay intact. One of the things I liked about the G-link was that it seemed to be the stronger setup of the popular 4-link setups available. Maybe it's worth opening up the outside rail and welding in some plate to strengthen that area of the rail as part of the install.

It's not designed to be WELDED in --- I think it's a BOLT IN design -- which - if it was bolted in - you wouldn't have the embrittlement associated with the welding.

If it was welded in properly -- i.e., with some fish plating and re-inforcement it would probably be just fine.

[Vegas69]

In Roger's case, I'm not sure embrittelment argument holds up. It's not close to the fracture line like mine. In these triangulated 4 links, the uppers bars take extreme force keeping the rear end centered. With the front crossmember like mine has, both frame rails get loaded. Without, only one really gets loaded which isn't ideal.

Greg is right, they were both designed to be bolted in the chassis. As usual, we all think we know better than the engineer that designed the system. I'm not ready to say that bolting it in would have netted me better results at this point. 1/16" sheetmetal would take a beating either way.

[Track Junky]

Holy Shiz-nit!! Nice work torque king .

[syborg tt]

Okay so I now have a question

What about using the bolts & panel bonding glue ( fusor ) instead of welding ??

[pokey64]

The G-Link manual says to weld the bracket in place. It's a bolt/weld combo.

[Vegas69]

I've also heard Bret at Ride Tech mention to weld in an air bar(same as g bar) under extreme conditions.

Bottom line is we have a cracked frame and broken frame with both set ups.

[Vegas69]

With the abuse it's taken, I'm going to reinforce it and stick with what I have. I found the weak link and I'll fix it professionally and move on.

I'm with Greg, these frame rails are thin and GM engineers are probably rolling in their graves right now. If I have problems down the road, it will get thicker rails.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by syborg tt

Okay so I now have a question

What about using the bolts & panel bonding glue ( fusor ) instead of welding ??

Doesn't change the stress loads... and if the bolts don't hold it - the glue ain't going to either. You're just trying to take the heat out of the equation... But PERSONALLY I think the real issue is 500 #'s of TQ and big azz tire loads on a part that was designed for a 6 banger...

Drag racers back half the cars....

Big HP and TQ cars need to build in far stronger support with these super sticky tires... Remember -- these cars are just sheet metal crap.